The book was written in the
late Edo
period (1603~1868) and has been published even until now. It was a peaceful
time, so people enjoyed traveling. The book is a kind of trip guides which
focuses on things to be careful about. It points out lots of things from outfits to
inns.
I highlight topics which show us how they
traveled and enjoyed. Btw, regarding traveling states such as expense or
duration, check the The
history of travel of Japanese ordinary people (published in 1971) PartⅡ.
The book is exhibited in a museum、Museums in Seki post town (part1) 東海道 関宿の資料館 (1)
江戸時代の後期、平和で旅行が庶民の間でも広まった1810年(文化7)に出版され、読み継がれた本です。当時の旅行での注意事項を丁寧に書いているのですが、その中から、当時の旅のようすが分かる部分を取り出しました。
なお、江戸時代の旅の実態(日数や旅費など)については、庶民と旅の歴史 (PartⅡ)をご参照ください。
Preface、自序
The beginning tells us the real states well. It says as follows.
” It is a very great time and a tensed one to plan a trip to Ise Shrine (the most popular destination back then), to invite friends, to select a lucky day to decide the departure date, to receive parting gifts from acquaintances (common custom even now) and to prepare for the trip.
On the departure day, extended families and friends accompany us until the border of our hometown, eat and drink together; some of them kindly give us advices during a trip. It’s an enviable sight even for others.
In the case of a trip for business or other purpose, we also become tense very much regardless of age.
People in eastern Japan tend to expect to travel to Ise, Nara, Kyoto, Osaka, Shikoku Island and Kyushu Island in western Japan; they hope to visit historic spots, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. People in western Japan tend to expect to go to Edo (old name of Tokyo), Kashima (shrine), Katori (shrine), Nikko, Matsushima, Kisakata, Zenkouji (temple) and so on.
It would be a grateful practice that we (including servants) are able to visit Ise Shrine once in a lifetime, if all family members are in good health and work well.
Regardless of classes (samurai, farmers, craftsmen and merchants), we never feel starving and we live a worry-free life if we work honestly and diligently every day; I think that it is due to keep the teachings of gods and Buddha.”
We can know how they started traveling, their popular destinations and the facts that ordinary people could enjoy a trip.
Then, he mentioned an importance of a health, he wrote that a trip was a good training opportunity, and he finally wrote “Spare the rod and spoil the child.” A child gets over a various difficulty, then he/she knows humanity and compassion. It means traveling was not easy back then. However, people want to travel; that’s the travel.
Kusatsu Inn Highroads Community Square 草津宿街道交流館
書き出しで、当時の旅がほぼほぼ分かります。現代語訳から引用します。
「人々が仕事のいとまに伊勢参宮に旅立とうとして、道連れを誘い、いつが吉日だからその日にしようと決め、あちこちから餞別物などをもらい、家中でその支度のあれこれに、心うきうきとしているさまは、なんとも気持ちの引き締まるものである。
なかでもいざ出発の日となると、親族や友だちなどが、町はずれまで見送りに行き、酒を酌み交わしながら、旅行中はあんなこと、こんなことに注意しなさいよなどと、それぞれが親切にいってやるようすは、はたから見ていてもうらやましいものだ。
また勤めのため、あるいは用事のためにあちこちへ旅に出るのも、歳に関わりなく心が張り詰めていて、これほど身の引き締まるものはない。
東国の人は伊勢をはじめとして大和、京、大阪、四国、九州までも、各地の名所、旧跡、神社、仏閣を見物したいと思うし、西国に人は伊勢から江戸、鹿島、香取、日光、奥州松島、象潟、信州善光寺参りなどに回りたいと願うものである。
家族がみな元気で仕事も上手くいっているところでは、主人はもちろんのこと、家来や親類にいたるまで、一生のうちに一度は伊勢参宮に行くというのは、日本に伝わるありがたい習わしではないだろうか。
一体、士農工商の身分を問わず、毎日毎日正直に、勤勉に努めていれば、決してひもじい思いをすることもなく、生涯を安心して楽しく暮らせるというのも、もとはといえば、神仏の教えを守っているお陰だと思う。」
当時の旅立ちの様子、人気の行き先、そして、旅が限られた人だけの楽しみでないことが分かります。
その後、健康の大切さ、旅は人生修行の良い機会だと続いていき、「かわいい子には旅をさせよ」とつながっていきます。いろいろな苦しみに耐えることで、人情に通じ思いやりを持てるようになる、すなわち、当時の旅には困難がともなっていたのです。それでも行きたいのが旅ですね。
Sixty one things to be careful while traveling、道中用心六十一カ条
This is a core chapter of the book. The first advice is about the departure day; you had better step firmly and calmly, and check that shoes get to fit you. Most of advices are concerning to prevent troubles. Apart from his advices. I pick up his descriptions about trip at that time.
“Waraji” straw shoes were used back then. The Hikoshiro Fujii Merchant House、藤井彦四郎邸、Museums in Ohmi Gokasho (2)、近江・五個荘の資料館(2)
本書の中心の部分です。旅の初日は、とりわけ静かに足を踏みしめて、草鞋が足によくなじんでいるかを確かめるようにするがよい、から始まります。とにかく、いざこざを起こさないように、思うようにならないのが旅だということです。用心の事項はさておき、当時の旅行の様子を拾い上げていきます。
(Means of transportation、交通手段)
- Hiring a horse, a carrier or a palanquin: If you are a beginner, you should ask an inn owner to hire them before. Because you would make trouble if you ask a driver or s carrier directly. I think it means inn is reliable. It was common that traveler askes someone to carry their luggage. It is repeatedly mentioned that checking the contents of luggage is important.
Japanese palanquin (1900-1910) https://www.loc.gov/item/2020637813/
- 初めて旅をする人は、馬や駕籠、荷物の人足が必要ならば、前夜のうちに宿亭主に頼む。直接交渉をすると困ったことになりかねない。ということで、宿はそれなりに信用できたのですね。そして、荷物だけを運んでもらうこともよくあったということです。荷物のチェックの大切さについて書かれています。
- If you need not harry due to important mission, you had better go by a land route. You can take rest if you go by a sea route, however, it sometimes too late for regrets (No use crying over spilled milk.) I thought travelers used a boat if possible, but it’s not true. Sea trip was unstable because of wind direction and storm.
- 大事な用事で急がなければならないときは、陸地を通る方が良い。船は足を休めるが後悔先に立たずとなることもある。大阪と京都、名古屋と桑名のように、航路がある所は船を使うものだと思っていましたが、船は風向きで速さが変わり、荒れると困ります。
- Elderly people and women had better not to get on a boat with a horse. Boats were not so large back then, but surprisingly they carried a horse together. For example, the boat below went to Osaka from Kyoto; the passenger capacity was 28 and four sailors got on. However, the length was only 17m and the width was 2m. I cannot believe they got on a boat with a horse which is unmanageable.
- While traveling with women, you should explain in advance when you across a river, walk along waterfront, walk along a mountain path and so on. It was difficult to travel such places.
三十石船、The Yodo River Museum 淀川資料館
- 老人や女性は、馬を乗せる船には乗らない方が良い。当時は馬も大きくないですが、船も大きくないのです。京都の伏見と大阪を結ぶ三十石船(最大28人)で、全長約17m、幅約2.5m。暴れる可能性がある馬をよく乗せたと思います。
- 女連れの旅では、川越え、水辺、山道など、厳しい場所に臨むときは前もって言い聞かせておく。当時は困難を伴ったのですね。
(Inn、宿)
Preserved Japanese inn、Museums in Seki post town (part1) 東海道 関宿の資料館 (1))
- You should choice a well-built and busy inn. The rate would be relatively expensive, however, it is worth staying. It’s same as a current situation. Btw, if they couldn’t secure an inn, travelers stayed at a village head’s house or slept outdoors etc.
- Although the order of taking bath is decided by the inn, it often causes trouble. It never happens now.
- When we are forced to stay at an unofficial post town, or to stay at a place away from a highway, we feel worse. However, never complain and be careful. Travelers had to endure. It simultaneously means inns at an official post town were good-quality and reliable.
- Bridges were not built on the major rivers due to the military reason. In the case of a rising of a river, travelers had to wait at inns. It is written that you never invest on an unofficial market such as a rice price, you also shouldn’t play a board game (Go or Shougi) while waiting. Some of them gambled during unexpected free time.
Crossing the
river in Odawara Kanagawa Prefectural Museum of Cultural History (part1)
- When guests start drinking together until late at night, one of your group members should join the party; because a trouble often occurs. The author, who was an experienced traveler, was a very cautious one at the same time.
Isabella Lucy Bird, who traveled Japanese countryside in 1878, was disgusted by the noisy party at the inn of Kasukabe post town. Guests played the shamisen guitar and sang late at night. Every traveler is on a high. (Travel of Isabella L. Bird in 1878, part 2)
- If someone who share a room recommends you a wonder and inexpensive drug, you never buy it. It was common to share a room back then, moreover a partition between guest rooms were sliding paper doors (shouji or fusuma). I understand there were many con artists.
- 宿屋は、なるべく造りが立派で、賑やかな宿屋が良い。少しばかり値段が高くてもそれなりにいいことがある。これは今も同じですね。当時は、名主・庄屋の家に泊めてもらったり、野宿することもありました。
- 風呂の順番は宿が決めるが、手違いでけんかになるものだ。これは、今はないですね。
- 間(あい)の宿(宿場と宿場の間で宿屋がある場所)、本道からそれた場所などで、良くないところに泊まることになったときは気分が良くないものである。しかし、不平を言わないで、用心しておく。がまんですね。そして、宿場の宿が安心だったということです。
- 川留め長く、宿に逗留する場合は、塗炭のような空相場(米相場)に手を出したり、賭け碁や将棋は絶対にしてはならない。暇つぶしの遊びです。
- 相宿の中で酒盛りが始まり、夜更けまで続いているようなら、自分の仲間の一人は、酒盛りが済むまで交代で寝ないようにする。よく問題を起こすものだ。いざこざ対策、用心深いですね。1878年(明治11年)に日本を旅したイザベラバードは、最初に泊まった春日部宿(日光街道、埼玉県)で、宴会騒ぎの喧噪に驚き、閉口しました。歌に三味線、大変な騒ぎでした。旅行中は、みんなハイになっていますから。(イザベラバードが見た明治初期の日本(2))
- 宿で相客に、妙薬を安く売ると勧める者がいても買ってはならない。襖で仕切った部屋で、相部屋もあり。こういう輩もいて当然ですね。
(Health management、体調管理)
- Although it is thirsty in summer, never drink pooled water even it is spring water in mountain. You should drink water with a drug such as Goreisan. Make sure carrying pepper. Drinking water was important, so the author explained it in detail in the other chapter.
- You should refrain from sexual desire while traveling. Prostitutes are supposed to be affected with venereal disease.
- Skin disease can transfer from bedding, so you had better put something with scent on your skin.
“Invited lady at an inn”, the ladies (right, prostitutes) are wearing makeup.赤坂宿の「旅舎 招婦ノ図」。右側で招婦(娼婦)らが化粧中。Chiryu history and folklore museum、知立市歴史民俗資料館
- 夏は喉が渇くが、山の湧き水でもよく流れていない水は飲んではいけない。五苓散などの薬といっしょに飲む。山椒、胡椒などは必ず持っていること。水は大切で、別の章で詳しく説明されています。
- 旅行中は、とりわけ色欲を慎む。娼婦は性病を持っているものである。
- 布団から皮膚病が移ることもあるので、香りのあるものを身につけて防ぐと良い。うーん。
(Companion and others、道連れ、その他)
- When if
you go with someone who seems to be reliable for several days, you shouldn’t
stay at a same inn. You also shouldn’t share foods and drugs. It’s fun to
travel with someone, but don’t trust them, he advised.
- The
preferable maximum number of people in a group would be five or six.
Otherwise, something inconvenient will happen.
- Don’t
stop to watch a fight, a sumo wrestling, a board game (Go or Shougi) or a
villagers’ dance etc. Don’t sing the same song with someone. Those would cause
a quarrel. He recommended not to mingle with locals; although I think it’ll
take away the fun of traveling, I’m sure those advices were based on his
experience.
- Never
doodle in shrines, temples, bridges, roadside trees and big stones. Never
put talismans on them. The rule is same as now. We haven’t stopped the
habit.
Talismans or name-tags inside the temple gate near my house
Name-tags attached on the hall of Shinagawa Shrine in Tokyo、品川神社- 旅の途中で、三日、もしくは五、六日ほど道連れになって、信用をおけるように見えた人とでも、同宿したり、食べ物や薬など、互いにやりとりしてはいけない。道連れは、旅の楽しみの一つですが、心を許してはいけないのです。
- 旅の連れはせいぜい五、六人程度までが良い。うまくゆかない者が出てくる。
- けんか、碁・将棋、村の踊り、相撲などは立ち寄って見ない。人が歌っているのに一緒に口ずさむ、など口論になりそうなことはしない。現地の人とは一線を画するということですね。寂しい気もします。でも、筆者の経験上のアドバイスでしょう。
- 神社や寺、橋や立ち木、大きな石などへ落書きをしたりお札を貼ったりするのは厳禁。 昔からしていたのですね。
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post town museum、藤川宿資料館
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