Sekigawa checkpoint was on Hokkoku-kaidou (highway) which linked central Japan and the Japan Sea coast in the Edo period (1603～1868). The checkpoint was rebuilt, and the museum next to it exhibits about “kaidou” (old highway).
The checkpoint is located at the border of
Nagano pref. and Niigata pref. The Sikigawa (river) is in front of the
checkpoint site. Let’s cross the bridge!
中山道の信濃追分（軽井沢町）を起点とし、北陸へ続く北国街道の信越国境に置かれたのが関川関所です。関所が復元され、街道に関する資料が隣接する道の歴史館に展示されています。信濃側からは関川を渡って関所に向かいます。
There is a path beside the bridge (upper right). Interestingly enough, it was a bypass to avoid the checkpoint. Women mainly used it, because they were checked thoroughly. It was called “Dog Path”.
橋の先には、関所を迂回できる「犬くぐり道」が整備されています。関所の手続きが煩雑な女性たちが使うことが多かったようです。
After crossing the bridge, the kaidou goes into the checkpoint.
橋を渡って、街道は関所に入ります。
The building was rebuilt at the checkpoint site. It was an important one, because not only a daimyo lord who possessed an area at the Japan Sea coast but also gold passed thorough (the gold was transported from Sado Island to Edo). In addition, pilgrims, who walked to Zenkouji (temple), passed. It was a heavy traffic.
関所跡には、建物が復元されています。関川関所は、参勤交代の大名だけでなく、佐渡から江戸に送られる金が通過する重要な関所。また、善光寺への参詣客も通る通行量が多い関所でした。
Two samurai (above) from Takada-han and a female official stationed. They checked a passport and so on; its replicas are sold there (lower right).
関所には高田藩士２名と女役人（人見女）が常駐していました。今は、関所で、お土産物として通行手形などを販売しています。
At the room in behind, a boy is checked. The female official probably doubts whether a woman disguises as the boy or not. The kimono clothes are lifted up.
Women were checked severely but the reason was not clear (It is generally said that preventing an escape of daimyo lord's wife who stayed at Edo as a hostage).
Passport for woman says holder’s social status (monk, deranged woman and so on) and physical appearances (mole and so on). Therefore, the official (doll) is checking the traveler’s body while lifting us clothes.
関所の奥の部屋では、女改めの様子が展示されています。少年の身なりだが女ではないか確認しているところでしょうか。女手形には禅尼・尼・比丘尼・髪切・乱心女の区別や身体の特徴も記載されていて、衣服をめくって確認できました。
You can put on clothes back then and take photos. You can select your hairstyle (lower right).
コスプレして撮影できます。今風ですね。
History museum of kaidou (old highway)、道の歴史館
Before visiting the checkpoint, you go to the museum and to pay admission. Photography is prohibited inside the museum (I got an approval from the city office before taking photos and uploading).
関所へは歴史館経由で入ります。道の歴史館内は撮影禁止。許可を得て撮影・アップロードしています。
Exhibition room (1st floor)、１階展示室
We can generally learn “kaidou” and “checkpoint” (it is not particular to Sekigawa checkpoint). Real passports and so on are exhibited.
関川に特化せず、街道について学べる展示になっています。手形の形式（一般の手形と女手形）、取り調べなどがパネルと実物で説明されています。
The map above shows checkpoints (red marks) to defense Edo where shogun was. Sekigawa checkpoint was classified as an important one. The checkpoints of local government (han) are also explained. We can learn a lot.
江戸を守る関所一覧です。関川関所は「重き関所」と位置づけられています。藩の口留め番所についても説明されています。知識が増えますよ。
The section above is about a post-town. Many locals gathered there, because not only inns but also other shops were there.
An interesting old document is displayed in the exhibition case above; it says, “Gambling is prohibited. If you see someone who gambles or hear of it, report it to us.” Gambling was prone to be held in a busy town like a post-town.
宿場の町並みのセクションでは、博奕を禁じ、見聞きしたら申し出るようにとの文書が展示されています。宿屋の他にも店が建ち並び、人が集まる宿場では厳しく監視されたのでしょうね。
The post-town and kaidou system in the Edo period (1603～1868) is compared to the ancient one.
Since the Edo period, official roads had been called “kaidou/街道” (“kai/街” means “town” and “dou/道” does “road”). Those were named “kaidou/海道“（“kai/海” means “sea” and “dou/道” does “road”）before. Because, ancient highway had consisted of land and sea routes. I didn’t know it; I became smarter.
道の歴史として古代と江戸時代の宿駅制の比較が示され、通信を担った飛脚の分類も説明されています。公の道が「街道」と呼ばれるようになったのは江戸時代からで、それ以前は「海道」としていたそうです。道を切り開くのが困難なので海路も活用したのですね。ますます、知識が増えます。
Quiz section for review! There are five questions. If all your answers are correct, you get a certification. I'm aware of it now.
パソコンクイズのコーナー！ 街道に関する質問が５問。全問正解できました（左上）。全問正解者は認定書をいただけるのですね。
There were eight post-towns between the checkpoint and the castle city “Takada”. Maps and old utensils are exhibited. The descent road to Takada was difficult in winter because of heavy snow. A shogun’s messenger got lost when he went to Takada, although snowplow workers attended him.
越後高田から関所までは８つの宿場が置かれ中山八宿と呼ばれました。登り道が続くだけでなく豪雪に見舞われる難所で、家光の使者が高田藩に向かう途中、雪踏み人足とともに道に迷ったほどでした。
Gold mined in Sado Island was transported to Edo castle where shogun was. After arriving at the main island, the gold was brought through three land routes; it took ten or eleven days. Hokkoku-kaidou was one of the candidate routes to Edo. Forty-five horses carried gold in 1766. The officials had to be so nervous. The picture upper right shows that the procession went out of Sekigawa checkpoint.
On the other hand, the panel below shows
local specialties along the kaidou, such as mochi cake, candy,
sushi, soba and fabric. Eating or buying them were treats during a trip even at
that time.
佐渡で採れた金は、新潟の出雲崎で荷揚げされ、北国街道、三国街道、会津街道のいずれかの３ルートで10～11日をかけて江戸城の御金蔵へ運ばれました。1766年は馬45頭の行列。ピリピリだったでしょうね。右上は御金荷関所通過の絵。
一方、下の絵には街道の名物（柏餅、翁飴、笹寿司、そば切り、紬）が記入されています。こちらは旅の楽しみですね。
Exhibition room (2nd floor)、２階展示室
Sekigawa was a post-town, which had two honjin ((high-end inn for exalted people such as a daimyo lord). The models of the buildings are exhibited.
関川は宿場町でもあり、２つの本陣がありました。歴史館では本陣の模型が展示されています。
A honjin (Ooishi) was at the site above, wherein nine daimyo lords regularly stayed while traveling to Edo. It is a private house but the preserved garden is open to the public. I really thanks to the owner.
加賀藩など９藩が本陣とし、明治天皇の行在所にもなった本陣跡（大石家）です。個人宅ですが、池泉式庭園を公開していただいています。ありがたいですね。
There was a tea room behind the pond, wherein you could see the Sekigawa (river). Cultural people such as tea masters and poets gathered. The pond and the stone placement exude cultural atmosphere.
かつては池の奥に、関川を望める茶室があり、茶人や歌人のサロンになっていました。池と石組みが文化的な雰囲気を残しています。
There was a honjin for the exclusive use of the daimyo lord of this territory (Takada-han); stone wall remains. The bypass to avoid the checkpoint still remains. Surprisingly enough, its entrance was by the honjin, which means the lord probably admitted the bypass of the checkpoint unofficially.
こちらは領主であり、幕命で関所を管理した高田藩専用の本陣跡（豊田家）です。石の塀が残ります。脇には犬のくぐり道の入口。関所の先まで続きます。本陣の脇を通るということは、黙認ということでしょうかね。
The garden above remains in the ex-inn site. A large stone in center is attractive. We go there through the pass by the private house (upper left). I also thanks to the person who preserves the garden. I can share the feeling to stay at inn with travelers back then.
旅籠のろうそく屋跡に残る池泉式庭園。今は民家の裏にあり、８畳ほどの大きな庭石が目を惹きます。民家の脇（左上）から入っていきますが、よくぞ残していただき、よくぞ公開してくれました。いにしえの旅人と景色を共有できます。
Returning to the museum; the section above is about ordinary people’s trip. Long tobacco pipe, case and on are exhibited. The travel manual is displayed in behind.
Reference (my article about the manual): Ryokou Youjin Shu “Things to know while traveling” (published in 1810)
道の歴史館に戻り、庶民の旅のコーナー。煙管と煙草入れなどの実物が展示されています。奥は、当時の旅の注意事項を書いた『旅行用心集』のコーナーです（『旅行用心集』の記事はこちら：旅行用心集(part1, 1810）
The role of Hokkoku-kaidou was taken over by Route 18. The traffic of the old highway is light now.
北国街道は、バイパスが作られ国道18号線になりました。関所付近の旧道は県道39号線になっています。交通量は少ないです。
The most popular restaurant along the new highway is above: “New Misa”. The miso-based ramen which has strong garlic taste, is so addictive!
バイパスの人気店は、味噌ラーメンが有名な “ニューミサ”。ニンニクが効いたクセになる味です。半チャーハンセットでいただきました。
Visited in May, 2025
Official website: https://www.city.myoko.niigata.jp/docs/848.html
(in Japanese), accessed in June, 2026
Previous post (museum on the same highway): Iizuna history museum、いいづな歴史ふれあい館（長野県）
Next post (faith
in Mt. Myokou near Sekigawa): Shrine and temple at the foot of Mt. Myokou、妙高山麓の社寺（妙高山信仰）(Coming soon)
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