Zenkouji (temple) and Chokkura-Oirai hall、善光寺とちょっ蔵おいらい館

Zenkouji has been one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations since medieval era. The route visiting Zenkouji, Ise Shrine, Edo (old name of Tokyo), Kyoto and Osaka, was desirable for everyone back then. The hall (Chokkura-Oirai-Kan, or literally "Drop in a bit here") was a merchant house in front on Zenkouji. It is a community center at present with exhibition space.

善光寺は中世以来、人気巡礼地。伊勢参り、善光寺参り、江戸見物、京大坂見物は、庶民にとっての一生一度の大旅行ルートでした。本記事では、善光寺門前の代表的な商家・ちょっ蔵おいらい館を中心に紹介します。門前商家はコミュニケーション施設として再生されました。長野市立博物館の付属施設です。

Zenkouji、善光寺

Although I visited on a weekday in an off-season (December, 2024), there was a decent number of people. It’s magnetic.

2024年12月の平日でしたが、善光寺への参道はそこそこの人出。さすが、善光寺さんです。

The main hall rebuilt in 1707 is solemn; it is designated as a national treasure. I visited several times, however, I am moved every time. I come to Zenkouji!

1707再建の本堂は威風堂々。５回以上、参拝していますが、いつも「善光寺さんに来られた」「お参りできた」というありがたさを感じます。

I went out the main-gate (Sanmon, you can go up), and returned the approach. The town near the approach is called “Monzen machi”, or literally town in front of the temple gate.

Reference: https://www.zenkoji.jp/en/

山門を出て、門前町（善光寺宿）へと戻ります。

The Honjin (high-end inn for exalted people such as a daimyo lord) was at the site of the building on the left. The family (Fujiya) who run the honjin manages restaurants and wedding hall in the building, which was built in the early modern era.

左側の建物が、本陣だった藤屋さん。今は、レストランと結婚式場を営んでいます。明治期の建物は、国の有形文化財。

Chokkura-Oirai hall、門前商家・ちょっ蔵おいらい館

The hall is on the left. Vegetable oil was traded back then, so the wall is fire-proof (lime plaster wall).

善光寺参道を大門で左折するとちょっ蔵おいらい館があります。油問屋だったので、漆喰壁など防火の配慮がされているとのこと。

The town in front of Zenkouji prospered as a trading hub. There were twelve market days a month; grain, firewood, salt and so on were traded. In the late 18^th century, permanent shops took major role of commers. Commercial city emerged in front of Zenkouji!

善光寺の門前町は、近郷近在の物資を集散する市場町でもありました。十二斎市（月に12日）が開かれ、戸隠と鬼無里の薪、越後の塩、各地の穀物が商われました。18世紀の終わりには常設店舗での取引が中心に。教科書に出てくる代表的な門前町です。

There are storehouses behind the main-building.

店の奥には蔵が並びます。

The exhibits and panels about merchant houses in the Meiji period (1868-1912) are displayed in the lounge of the main-building (above).

お休み処には明治時代の商家について展示されています。

Flashy merchants built festival floats.

派手好みの商人の町です。祭り屋台も作りました。

Half million people rushed to Zenkouji in 1930 in order to see and to pray to the particular image. It is open to the public every six-years (Gokaicho, opening the curtain in front of the image) for a few months. The drawing above depicted the event. So popular!

昭和５年の御開帳の時の参列。50万人が参拝しました。繁栄を極めています。

The paper below is a souvenir about Zenkouji in 1918. It would help the traveler to talk about Zenkouji with acquaintances, because not only its buildings but also its legends are on it. The lighter souvenir was better because they basically brought their all belongings and got on a train. I think the design of the illustrations are almost same as the ones in the Edo period (1603～1868).

善光寺のお土産（大正７年）。みやげ話のネタですね。軽いのでありがたく、お札とセットで近所に持って行ったのでしょうか。江戸時代のものと絵柄はあまりかわらないと思います。

A shop counter was remade and an owner sits down. A bit scary.

帳場が再現されています。ちょっと怖い。

Storehouses are used to show citizens’ art works and so on.

蔵は市民の作品の展示施設として利用されています。

Official website: https://www.city.nagano.nagano.jp/museum/oirai/index.html (in Japanese)

Visited in May, 2025

Zenkouji Town was also a post-town which was on Hokkoku-kaidou; it linked the Sea of Japan and Nakasendou highway.

善光寺門前町は中山道と日本海を繋ぐ北国街道の宿場町でもありました。

Previous post (post-town on the same highway): Komoro post-town and Honmachi hall、小諸宿と北国街道ほんまち町屋館

Next post (another iconic temple and its gate-front town): Kitamuki Kannon and Bessyo hot-spring、北向観音と別所温泉(Coming soon)

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Fun of Good Old Japanese - 江戸・明治に学ぶ　楽しむ生き方

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