Travel diary at the end of the Edo period 幕末の有馬温泉紀行
ーStaying at Arima & its financial records、有馬入湯入用記（1866年）ー
It was just one year before when the
internal war started and the shogunate, which lasted for 266
years, was overthrown. It was also a difficult time for Arima (check the previous post). Mr. Hatanaka who lived in the west of Osaka (Kashiwara)
visited Arima in April and wrote a precise diary at that time. It was a really ordinary trip, and we can understand how the ordinary people enjoyed staying at Arima hot spring resort well.
On the 13th of April in
a lunar calendar (It was on the 26th of May in the international
calendar): He left Kashiwara (see the map below). His wife and maid might
accompany him. They went to Shisaibashi in Osaka at first to buy a pan, seaweed
(Tororo-konbu) and so on. Then he went to Itami and stayed there. He complained because
there was no bathhouse there, and said “How will I treat my weary legs?” He
might go to Itami on foot because there were no records to hire horses or
Japanese palanquins. It was a 30 km journey in direct distance, I cannot walk
such a distance. They took a rest two times at teahouses in the morning and two
times in the afternoon. They took a lunch and he drunk sake(alcohol). If I
were him, I would sleep after eating lunch and drinking sake, I wouldn’t
be able to walk.
動乱期で有馬温泉が不景気に陥っていく中（前の記事をご参考）、まさしく幕末、薩長連合ができた頃に、河内国柏原の畑中六兵衛が有馬への詳細な旅日記を残している。当時の庶民の楽しみ方が分かり面白い。
4月13日（太陽暦では5月26日）：大阪の中東部、奈良県に接する柏原を出発し、大阪・心斎橋で有馬で使う大なべやとろろ昆布などを買って、伊丹宿にて泊まる。主人と妻、下女の三人の旅のようだ。午前中に二回、午後にも二回、茶屋に寄って、お昼のお弁当を食べる時には酒も飲んでいる。宿の風呂屋がなく、「くたびれる足の如何せんや」と書いている。直線距離で約30ｋｍの旅、馬や籠を雇った費用が書かれていないので、ひょっとしたら歩いたのかも知れない。
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| Nakayama-dera from train、阪急電車からの中山寺 |
On the 14th: It was rainy but eventually became sunny in the afternoon. In spite of the rainy morning, they made a side trip to
Nakayama-dera temple. They were so tough. They had lunch at Namase. They
ordered tai fishes and ate leftover rice from yesterday’s lunch. Eating old rice
in a warm season is not common in Japan now.
They walked along the river around 12
km. Steppingstones across the river and sloping roads bothered them, so they
hired helpers to bring their bags. Finally, they arrived at Arima and stayed at a
famous inn called “Hyo-e” until the 28th. “Hyo-e” continues as “Hyoe
Koyokaku” even now. He wrote “There were twenty onsen(hot spring) inns”, but the
number is so small because there were around three hundred inns at its peak time. He paid the rate to the inn, then gave tips for the master's
wife, her daughters, Yu-na girls (bathhouse controller), boss of Yu-na and
servants.
He wrote that most
visitors cooked by themselves, although the inn served cooked rice and so on. He
recommended to bring tea, seaweed, sliced dry bonito fish, sugar, sweets etc.
It was written for his family members who would visit Arima later on; he was a
really detail-oriented person. He also mentioned to bring a ceramic kettle and wrote “We
can buy it in Arima, but it is not chic.” On the other hand, he wrote “We can
get a good sake in Arima.” Arima is near the sake production area, Nada in Kobe
and Itami.
On the second floor, there were six spaces for staying and each space was occupied by the visitors from various regions of western
Japan. He mingled with a visitor from Shikoku Island;
they made short poems together. There was a kitchen on the second floor, too; his maid and his wife cooked
vegetables and fishes there.
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| Arima town now、湯本坂 |
14日：降雨、八つ時分（午後二時頃）より快晴とある。雨にもかかわらず、まず、中山寺に寄って参詣。昼ご飯は生瀬で、茶屋で鯛の切り身を頼み、前日の弁当の残りを食べる。ちょっとびっくりだ。生瀬からは有馬まで約12kmを川沿いに進んでいく。飛び石伝いに川を渡り、登っては下りでくたびれたようだ。合力を雇っている。
有馬に着いて、兵衛（別名：杓子屋）を宿にし、28日まで滞在する。この宿は兵衛向陽閣としてその伝統が受け継がれている。温泉宿二十軒と書かれているので、三百軒あったという時代から見ると確かに少ない。まず、宿代（金百疋、2～3千円）、女房、娘二人、湯女、湯かか、下人に祝儀（五十疋）、小童には一朱渡している。
さて、有馬での湯治生活が始まるが、宿が米飯などを用意してくれるが、客の大半は自炊である。持参した方が良い品として、茶、とろろ昆布、鰹節、砂糖、菓子などをあげている。後々の人の参考にしようとしているようだが、まめな人だ。土瓶も含まれており、「有馬にあれど風流ならず」と書かれている。一方、「酒はよきものあり」で、灘や伊丹の酒どころに近いだけのことはある。
二階には、客間が六席あって、播州の人、明石の人、西宮の人、讃州の人、一席は不明で、残る一席には主人が泊まっている。讃州高松の人とは、句作で交流している。炊事場や竈もあって、下女と妻が野菜や魚肉を煮たようだ。
On the 15th:
He read a book about the efficacy of Arima onsen, then went to the bathhouse. He
selected Aimaku-class which limited customers by maku (curtain). He measured
the bathtub size using his hand towel, and wrote; it was 2.9m width, 2.3m
long and 1.2m depth. It was a deep tub, so people never sit in the tub.
Yu-na girl guided him to the bathhouse two or three times a day.
About the quality of the hot spring, he
mentioned it depended on the weather. It rained from the 14th to the 21st,
and the temperature was not stable (cold or warm); during the time, hot water got muddy with
red iron. His kimono (clothes) to use at the bathhouse was stained, and he wrote the hot water was
uncomfortable. However, it was sunny continuously from the 22nd and
the water became clearer gradually.
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Standing
monkey in a hot spring
@ Hakodate, Hokkaido、函館市熱帯植物園
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15日：温泉効能記を読んでから、合幕に入る。筆者が手拭いで測った寸法は、2.9ｍ×2.3ｍ×深さ1.2m余り。合幕の湯には、日に二三度、湯女に案内されていく。
肝心のお湯についてだが、天候に左右されているように書かれている。14日から21日昼までは「日々陰雨、寒暖不定」であり、「湯も赤鉄気ににごり、浴衣などが染って何となく不快」だという。1857年の訴状にあったが、赤泥が出て客が嫌がったようだ。22日からは状況が変わる。「二十二日より快晴、沸場漸々に濁り薄くなる」ということだ。
On the 20th:
it was the first sunny weather from the afternoon. He walked around
and visited the relic of the teahouse and garden which was built by Rikyu (the
most famous tea master). He was touched by the view of Mt.Haigata and Mt.Ochiba there and made short poems. It might be the happiest hours for him.
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| 温泉寺無盡蔵の展示品に加筆 |
He continued walking to eye-rinsing spring,
Uwanari spring, Yakushi-dou hall and the bathhouse relic of Hideyoshi who
was a ruler in the 16th century and loved Arima so much. By the
way, there is a folklore about Uwanari (jealousy in English) spring. A wife,
who found out that her husband had the other lady, jumped into the hot spring.
After that, the water boiled when a beautiful woman stood by the spring.
However, the spring dried up now.
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| Uwanari shrine and spring、妬神社と妬の湯 |
20日：午後はやっと快晴で、あちこちに出かける。豊臣秀吉が利休に立てさせた茶室と庭の跡を訪れ、灰形山、落葉山の眺めを絶景と褒めて和歌を詠んでいる。至極の時間だったろう。
目洗の湯、妬（うわなり）の湯、寺院が数々ある薬師堂を巡り、「太閤おもひの湯の跡あり」と記している。当時は秀吉の湯殿の場所がはっきりしていたのかも知れない。今は、極楽寺奥の湯殿跡と思われる場所に「太閤の湯殿館」が立っている。一方、妬の湯からは今は湯が出ていないが、伝説が残っている。夫に愛人がいるのを突き止めた人妻が、愛人を殺し温泉に身を沈めた。その後、美しい女性が温泉のそばに立つと、嫉妬で湯が湧き出すようになったという。泉源の横には神社がある。なお、目洗の湯は今はない。
He also visited Tsutsumi-no-taki (Drum-fall),
then backed to the town. There was a restaurant with good landscape, which was
famous for its soba buckwheat noodle. He wrote “Playboys come here with
Yu-na girls and enjoy. Loud sound of musical instruments and voice of
singing are heard.” People reveled here! He also wrote “Hope to hold a party
with all Yu-na girls.” There were eight Yu-na and he mentioned it costed one
ryo ($100 at current value). It was not a bad deal.
By the way, seven days (one term) passed after his
arrival, so he paid the rate to the inn and gave tips.
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Settsu-meisho(tourist spots)-zue(pictures)、摂津名所図会
神戸市立図書館 貴重資料デジタルアーカイブズ https://www.city.kobe.lg.jp/information/institution/institution/library/arc/pages/103/103_002.html
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更に、鼓の滝を見物する。滝から戻って、町の入り口に来ると見晴らしのよい店がある。蕎麦が名物だったそうだ。「侠カ驕客は此処に湯女など誘って遊ぶ、糸竹（琴や三味線などの弦楽器と笛などの管楽器）遊歌声よりより高し」と書かれている。どんちゃん騒ぎするのだ。「惣揚（遊里の店を貸し切りにすること）にて一酒宴もいたし度もの也」と書いている。湯女は八人であり、合計1両（幕末なら1万円程度）で遊べそうというから、高くはない。
この日は、入湯一廻り目（7日目）ということで、宿賃と心付けを渡している。
On the 21st: The widow of
Karou (executive samurai officer) came to Arima with 30 people. She was
around fifty and beautiful. About fifteen people including six waiting maids
and a doctor remained in Arima.
By the way, he went to a barber on this day and he went again on the 26th,too. Men’s hair (Chon-mage style) required frequent care.
By the way, he went to a barber on this day and he went again on the 26th,too. Men’s hair (Chon-mage style) required frequent care.
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Men with Chon-mage hair: It is written
“Hyo-e” on the lantern, that is the inn’s name where the author stayed. ちょんまげ頭の男達。筆者が泊まった兵衛の提灯を持っている。
Settu-meisyo-zue,
Arima maku-yu(part)、摂津名所図会･有馬温泉幕湯図（部分）
神戸市立図書館 貴重資料デジタルアーカイブズ https://www.city.kobe.lg.jp/information/institution/institution/library/arc/pages/103/103_002.html
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21日：蜂須賀藩洲本城代家老の後室（未亡人）が供回り三十人ばかりと来る。五十歳ぐらいの美しい人らしい。侍女六人に医師ら含め十四五人が逗留した。この日、主人は髪結いに行っている。ちょんまげは手間がかかりそう。26日にも行っている。
On the 22nd, he went to Mt.Ochiba
and wrote “There are various scenic sites. Don’t forget bring a gourd (which
was used as a sake bottle).” Arima is a good hot spring resort because it
has various walking spots. He visited Zenpukuji temple then. He paid a fee and observed
the historical documents, tea cups and so on. The temple was similar to the
museum today.
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| Gourd and painted gourd bottles、瓢箪 |
22日は、落葉山に行く。「勝地所々あり、一瓢わするへからず」とある。湯治場としては、気分転換に出かける場所があるのも大切なことだ。帰路に、善福寺に寄るが、見料を払って足利家、豊公の文書や寺の茶碗などを見ている。資料館のようなものだ。
On the 23rd, he visited
Zuihouji temple and wrote “When I visited here about 25 years ago, it was clean
but no one maintains now.” This temple was ruined soon later. However, this place is
famous for its autumn leaves. The ruler Hideyoshi praised it and said “I can
look at this view forever.” Zuihouji park is there now, and tea party called
“Arima Great Tea Ceremony” is held in November now. He bought souvenirs for Yu-na
and children of his inn and returned; they seemed to be family members.
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Zuhouji park and tea party、瑞宝寺公園と有馬大茶会
Poster
of Arima Hot Springs Tourism Association、有馬温泉観光協会のポスター＠新神戸駅（2019）
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23日の午後は荒れてしまった瑞宝寺を訪ねている。二十四五年前に来た時は、掃除が行き届いていたと書いているが、瑞宝寺は明治に廃寺となった。ここは、秀吉が「いくら見ても飽きない」と愛でた紅葉の名所である。今は、瑞宝寺公園になっており、11月には紅葉のもとで有馬大茶会が開かれている。新緑も美しかったろう。この日は、湯女や宿の娘におみやげを買って帰る。宿屋とも家族付き合いだ。
On the 24th, he took a
bath soon after the noble widow got out. He was surprised with the interior
because bamboos were put on the tub and the ladder was installed. He wrote
“It’s impossible for us to arrange such a luxurious tub.” And he made poems.
On the 26th, he took a
“Maku-nashi” bath, which everyone could get into, before noon. A fat monk was
in the bath. His skin turned red soon like a boiled octopus, so he made a short
poem and said, “If the tub of Arima was a bit deeper, I could capture the big
octopus.” He wrote “(My humorous poem) raised a laugh in the bathhouse.” He
enjoyed the resort.
He also took a “Maku-nashi” bath in the evening
which was the first time for him. He wrote guests were overbold and some were
dirty, therefore he went to the end of the tub. Then, a local guy said to the dirty ones, “You
must come at night. Get out of the bath!” There were only two bathhouses, so
people from various class used the same bathhouse. They probably separated the space by curtain and
time.
His servant, who came to fetch them, arrived
at Arima. He brought letters, sweets and small fishes which delighted him. The
letter delivered to the inn was very precious back then.
24日、晴天。稲田家の後室の後に風呂に入り、竹を湯船に渡し、組梯子などを入れた様子に驚き、「土民商人のなし難きこと也」と記して、風呂の句も詠んでいる。
26日、昼前に幕なしに入ると、よくふとった坊さんがいて、しばらくすると茹で蛸のような赤肌になった。「今少し 有馬の湯壺 深からば 大鮹を捕らましものを」を口ずさみ、「湯の内、どよめき笑いける」とある。
宵湯の幕なしに初めて入るが、入っている人が厚かましいし、汚い人も入ってくるので、端によると、地元の人が、汚い人に対して「お前らは夜に入るはずなのに、早く上がれ」と言ったそうだ。「幕なしの晩湯 いうもうるさし」とある。何しろ、二つの湯槽にいろんな人が入ってくる。
この日、迎えの下僕が到着する。家人の手紙の他に知人から菓子と小鮎、手紙をもらって喜んでいる。この時代、家を離れると、手紙の価値が大きい。
On the 27th: Two terms (14
days) passed. He prepared to
return, and bought souvenirs. He also gave tips to the inn members. He showed
his servant around the tourist attractions.
On the 28th: He departed
from Arima. The master of the inn asked him to leave a poem, so he sent a poem
in which he mentioned he would be back in the autumn. He was given farewell gifts.
Daughters of the inn, Yu-na girls, boss of Yu-na and servants sent him off.
He passed Namase and had a lunch near Itami. They
traveled very fast. At the end of this note, he wrote “I wrote this inside
the palanquin.”. It is impossible to write while on it, so I’m not sure if he indeed used it or just walked. Anyway, there were no records to pay the palanquin fare.
By the way, Arima could not flourish at that
time. On the 9th of June, officers of the town pleaded for debt to
the local government office. Arima flourishes now, so I cannot imagine it at
that time.
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Souvenirs, traditional
crafts of Arima、有馬みやげの伝統工芸品
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Japanese palanquin、駕籠の旅
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27日：二廻り（二週間経過）となり、土産物を買うなど帰宅の準備をする。宿の者にも祝儀を与える。また、下僕を連れて、堤の滝など有馬の名所を案内している。
28日：出発の日、宿の主人に乞われて、秋に来ますね、という歌を書いて渡す。餞別の品々をもらい、宿の娘、湯カカ、湯女、下人などに見送られ有馬を発つ。生瀬を通り、昆陽池の先で弁当を食べる。足が速い。最後の方に、「ただ旅駕ののりに任せて書きやりたり」とあり、籠を使ったのかも知れない。
一方、有馬温泉に繁盛は戻らず、6月9日に、銀の拝借などを代官所に願い出ている。今日の繁栄が嘘のようだ。
Arima, Kusatsu and Gero are called the three
great hot springs in Japan. The health benefits of Arima hot spring have been famous for a long time. Moreover, people could visit Arima on foot from the
big cities, Kyoto and Osaka. It was just a two-day trip. It is in the
mountainous area, but the emperor visited there 1,500 years ago. Arima has
treated various people for a long time, and people have relaxed and soaked in happiness.
有馬温泉は草津温泉、下呂温泉とともに日本三名湯となっている。「お医者さんでも有馬の湯でもなおせぬ病い」という言葉があるほど、効能も高い。しかも、徒歩の時代でも京都、大阪から一泊で行けた。山間の狭い土地ではあるが、1500年前には天皇が行幸していたという。人々に癒やしと楽しみを与え続けている温泉リゾートだ。
Previous
post (Difficult days of Arima、有馬温泉の苦難の時期):
Historical
docs. of Arima Onsen hot spring resort (part3)、 有馬温泉史料･その3
Next
post (Museum in Arima、有馬温泉の資料館):
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