人の楽しみの発見度:Very Good ★★☆
Eating is one of the most fun
things through our life. It is written in this
recommendable book about what ingredients Japanese have eaten, how they have
cooked and served. The author (1895-1984) was a pioneering female
folklorist and she was the right author for this book, because she had actually
cooked.
Until
around 1900, people in rural area would have eaten in order to work
mainly for farming. There were poor ingredients, because the logistics
was not developed and many people avoided eating animal meals due to the
Buddhism practice. The cooking methods were also poor. However, there were
delicious foods for them. Those were simple meals such as salted sardine
which was wrapped by a hohba leaf and was heated up in the ash of an irori fireplace. I wonder whether people at
present can think it is delicious, but it was the delicious food for them. The
evaluation of a meal is relative.
People
(family, collogues or villagers) usually gathered at a dinning place and ate
together. They had many chances to talk with others in person, and they
were good at mingling. I’m sure it was a fun time.
Contents、目次
2.Cooking method of staple food、主食料の食べ方 (Part 1)
食べることは何よりも楽しみです。日本人は何を食材にし、どのように調理し、どのように食べてきたかの事例を多く挙げているお薦めの書です。著者の瀬川清子(明治28年-昭和59年)は女性民俗学者の先駆者で、大妻女子大学の教授を務めた方です。
明治以前の農村部の普段の食べ物は、労働のために、とにかく腹を満たすというレベルだったと思います。食材も調理方法も少なすぎました。でも、「うまい!」という食べ物がありました。塩物の鰯を朴葉で包んで囲炉裏の灰の中で焼いたようなシンプルなものです。飽食の時代にいる我々が食べると「うまい!」とは思えないでしょう。でも、彼らには美味しかったのです。楽しみは相対的なものですから。
また、食べる場には家族や仕事仲間が集まるのが常でした。対面の付き合いが今よりも多く、付き合うことを得意とした彼らにとっては、楽しめる場であったと思います。
1.Staple food、主食料
The author wrote that staple
food of Japanese was not rice but rice was an ideal food for Japanese people. The
actual staple foods were boiled rice mixed with barley or with vegetables such
as daikon radish. In the early 20th century, people in a city
ate boiled rice mainly, however, people in a rural area mixed barley or millet
into rice. Those were easy to cultivate even in a water scarce area or a cold
one; those were staple foods in some areas in the Edo period (1603~1868) when samurai ruled
Japan.
Japanese
mixed rice https://publicdomainq.net/takikomi-gohan-rice-dish-0027122/, https://publicdomainq.net/rice-takikomi-gohan-0027565/
日本人は米食を理想とする習慣を持った民族であり、麦などの雑穀や、大根などの蔬菜(栽培した野菜)を米に混ぜて炊いた麦飯やカテ飯を主食とした、というのが著者の主張です。大正時代、都市では米食が主になりましたが、村落では、地域の特性に合わせて、畑で作れる麦や、冷害干害に強い粟や稗を作って使いました。
大正7年の全国調査の結果から、大阪と和歌山の主食料の比較を示します。
|
大阪 |
和歌山 |
市部 |
米飯、麦飯、 一部は朝夕白粥・茶粥、米7に芋野菜の飯 |
主食は米麦だが、燃料倹約のため麦を少なくする。中流以下は、朝茶粥、昼は飯、夕茶漬け |
市街地 郡部 |
朝茶粥、昼麦飯、夕は茶漬けまたは茶粥、季節により芋粥 |
|
村落部 |
米飯・麦飯を主食とし、一部は白粥・茶粥・芋粥 |
朝夕茶粥、昼麦飯、秋から初春まで甘藷粥、薯少なき村は大根入りの麦飯 |
和歌山育ちの親に聞いていたとおり、和歌山は米飯を食べられなくて貧乏だなあと思いましたが、「茶」を常食できたのは、豊かだということだそうです。
2.Cooking method of staple
food、主食料の食べ方
(1)Mixed rice、炊き込みご飯・混ぜご飯
It’s a rice dish like paella; plenty of daikon radish, turnip, seaweed and so on have been mixed. It not only reduced the precious consumption of rice back then, but also included side dishes. As animal ingredients, crucian carp, or asari clam have also been mixed.
Surprisingly enough, insects
(young bees or locust) are mixed even until now in central Japan (https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/k_ryouri/search_menu/menu/hebomeshi_aichi.html in Japanese but the photo is
uploaded). Btw, insects are hopeful ingredients now. They grow with a little
food (low environmental load) and contain rich protein. Powder of edible crickets
are used for in-flight meals (https://www.nikkei.com/video/6309107029112/ Japanese news). Insects have a
possibility as a mainstream ingredient.
大根、蕪、海藻類を大量に入れるカテ飯が各地で作られていました。米の消費を減らすとともに、おかずも兼ねていました。にんじん、ゴボウ、椎茸、油揚げ等を入れて醤油で味付けする交ぜ飯、色飯は新しい流行です(1968年時点)。動物性の具材として、漁村の鮒飯、あさり飯。そして、信州には蜂の子飯、蝗(いなご)飯があることは驚きです(https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/k_ryouri/search_menu/menu/hebomeshi_aichi.html /農水省)。今や、昆虫は高たんぱく質の食材、しかも食用コオロギなどは少ないエサで繁殖するので環境負荷が低いと注目され、粉末化したものが機内食に取り入れられています(https://www.nikkei.com/video/6309107029112/)。また、メジャーになるかもしれません。
(2)Cooked rice soaked
in water, hot water or hot tea、湯漬け・水漬け・茶漬け
Adding
water to rice was effective in order to feel fullness; adding tea prevailed behind
because it was costly. In Tohoku region (northern Japan), mountain workers
brought a lunch box of boiled rice or barley, on which miso paste was;
they poured mountain water to the box and shovel it into their mouth. They said
it was so delicious. It is a very thrifty meal for modern people.
On the
other hand, there have been many foods made of powder of staple grains.
People poured hot water to the powder, or put the powder on the boiled staple
food. People have made dango dumplings or noodles using the powder. I
thought that dango and mochi were just snacks, but they were
effective utilization of broken or immature staple grains. It’s a superior
processing.
Cooked rice soaked in tea、イカの塩辛茶漬け https://ganref.jp/m/alpha-tec/portfolios/photo_detail/1221381
Dango dumplings https://ganref.jp/m/yukitkat/portfolios/photo_detail/4417535
湯漬け、水漬けは腹の膨らませ方として有効でしたが、茶漬けはちょっと贅沢で普及は遅くなりました。東北では、夏に、わっぱに飯(麦飯の場合も)を詰め、味噌を載せたものを山に持ち込んで、清水でかきこみました。美味だったそうです。
一方、主食料の穀類を粉にして食べるのは、湯に入れて、御飯にかけて、団子や麺にして食べるなど、驚くほどたくさんありました。ところで、焼き餅や焼団子はおやつだと思っていましたが、くず米や砕米の利用方法でした。美味しくいただく工夫ですね。
(3)Steamed rice、強飯(こわめし)
Steamed rice have been made on
a day of festival or rite. Red beans are often mixed, which color rice
reddish brown.
おこわです。米を蒸して食べますが、祭日に多い料理でした。
3.Ingredients of side dishes、副食物
Side dishes were mainly pickled vegetables and
a miso soup. Sometimes, boiled vegetables and salted fishes were added.
おかずは、漬物と汁だけの場合も多いのですが、煮た野菜、塩漬けの魚もありました。
Meals in
winter、冬の食事 Waju-life museum、輪中生活館
(1)Wild vegetables in mountain、山菜
People in Tohoku region, which is snowy, have enjoyed gathering wild plants.
They find seri parsleys under snow. After snow disappears, women and children to a mountain, and seek for fukinotoh and yomogi mugworts. Afterword, they gather leaf buds; they chop up and mix the buds with roasted miso-paste. It goes well with rice. In addition, it smells as something bitter which is lovely spring scent.
Then, authentic gathering season has come; there are plenty of udo plants, warabi
brackens, zenmai plants, fuki butterburs and bamboo shoots sprout.
Gathered wild vegetables get hard easily, so they are soaked or are dried on the
same day. The topic was written from author’s experiences; we can understand
her delights to gather foods and welcome spring well.
Wild vegetables sold in the morning market in Tohoku, Hijiori onsen hot-spring resort in Yamagata Prefecture、 肘折温泉 https://ganref.jp/m/teddymaimai/portfolios/photo_detail/4910158
In autumn, people have gathered mushrooms, which have been not only ingredients of a festive feast but also ones of a soup during winter. They ate what they gathered by themselves, it’s an ideal practice; they knew edible wild plants well, because they ate them while in famine. They ate anything near at hand.
雪国東北では、春の青物採りが楽しい仕事でした。雪の下の根芹(ねぜり)、雪が消え始めた後はふきのとうやヨモギが出てきます。女や子どもは芽摘みに出ました。ウグイスが鳴く頃には、木の芽を茹でて刻み焼味噌とあえました。御飯にまぶすとほろ苦い春の香りがしたそうです。続いて、ウド、ワラビ、ゼンマイ、蕗、そして筍、本格的な山の青物採りが始ました。採った山菜は、堅くなるのでその日のうちに干したり、漬けたりしました。著者の体験として、採集労働の喜びと春を迎える喜びが書かれています。
秋はキノコ採り。これらは、祭りの日のご馳走や冬の間の汁の実になりました。自分で採ったものを食べる、いい話です。手近で食べられるものは、ほとんど食べたようです。飢饉のときには食べていましたから。
(2)Vegetables、蔬菜
They ate daikon
radish and turnip mainly, especially daikon was most popular as pickled
vegetable.
蔬菜は栽培した野菜で、蕪と大根主たる物でした。大根は漬物の王座でした。
(3)Fishes and sushi、魚と鮨
Salted
or dried fishes were good meals in a mountainous area. Thereafter, row fishes have been
delivered due to refrigerators and fish preservation tanks (ikesu in
Japanese).
Dried fishes at a fishing port、大洗漁港(2010年)https://ganref.jp/m/a-garage/portfolios/photo_detail/687516
Sushi is originally a preserved food during a festival or for sending them to a far area. In Niigata, people made salmon sushi in the late November, and ate during the New Year’s. Those were fermented.
In Wakayama, people made mackerel (saba fish) sushi in the mid-September, then fermented, and ate from the festival day (15th of October) to November. The taste and flavor changed as the progress of the fermentation. They lived in a coast village, but they fermented fishes and rice. I also like fermented sushi so much, although; many foreigners don't prefer the flavor after fermentation.
In Akita, people roasted fermented sushi.
Anyway, “sushi” has been a particular food.
In the
early 18th, sushi was started to be made of sliced fish, rice and
vinegar; it was not fermented, but was served quickly. That’s what you imagine:
nigiri(hand-formed)-sushi or chirashi(scattered)-sushi.
Pressed and lightly fermented sushi wrapped by a persimmon leaf (kakinoha sushi in Nara)、奈良・吉野の柿の葉寿司
Nigiri-sushi(upper)
and chirashi-sushi(lower)、金沢市口福さん@近江市場
塩物や干物が山間部のご馳走でした。塩物や乾物は、生け簀、冷蔵技術のおかげで、生ものになっていきました。
鮨は、祭りの時や遠方に送るための保存食品でした。新潟県瀬波町では、正月用の鮭鱒の鮨を11月末に作りました。漬け鮨です。和歌山県加茂村のなれずしは、10月15日の祭りで用いる鯖鮨を9月中旬から漬け込みました。11月まで食べるそうで、海辺の加茂でも生ではなく、なれずしにして食べるのですね。私の好物です。時間とともに発酵が進み、香味が強くなります。漬け鮨を焼いて食べる地方(秋田など)もあるそうです。鮨はご馳走という感じがしますよね。
一方、江戸時代に、発酵で酸味を出すのではなく、飯に酢を加えて作る早鮨が人気になりました。現在主流のにぎり鮨、ちらし鮨です。
(4)Animal meat、獣肉
Because
of teachings of Buddhism, many people didn’t kill and eat animals, although some ate deer or wild
boar. The history book written in 720 says that there was a prohibition to eat
cow, horse, dog, monkey and chicken. They couldn’t imagine Wagu Beef becomes
popular in the world.
The food
habit was surveyed in nationwide in 1941. I was surprised that rabbit (both of
livestock and wild ones) was eaten in many villages. It was equated with
chicken; the fur was also utilized. On the other hand, people in Oki Island let
an old chicken loose in a mountain. They avoided seeing the death. (Japanese
food culture, published in 1990)
四足動物は仏教の影響でほとんど食べませんでした。食べるのは鹿、猪(いずれもシシと呼ぶ)が多かったとのことです。日本書記・続日本紀には、牛馬犬猿鶏の肉を食べることの禁令が出ています。和牛が人気輸出品になっているのがウソのようです。『日本の食文化』(成城大学民俗学研究所編_1990)には、昭和16年の調査結果が書かれていますが、飼養した兎や野兎を食べた村落が多いのに驚きます。兎は一羽、二羽、鶏扱いだったようです。毛皮も利用しました。また、屠殺を嫌う部落もあり、年老いた鶏を(長崎県壱岐島)
An old
picnic is written in this chapter. People went to a coast on the 3rd of March in many
villages. It was early April in the solar calendar; it’s a warm season. In Izu
Peninsula, lads and lasses prepared meals and sake (alcohol), went seaside,
and played all day long. Although it was not common to cook outside, people in
Tono of Iwate enjoyed cooking and eating on a river bank. It’s a BBQ
party at present; I’m sure it was the fun time.
この章には、遊びの話も書かれています。3月3日は海で遊ぶことが各地で行われていました。新暦だと4月上旬です。伊豆半島では、若い男女が酒肴を用意して、岬に出て終日遊びました。外で料理をすることは多くありませんでしたが、岩手県遠野では川端で煮炊きして飲食しました。BBQパーティーのようなもので楽しそうです。
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of the article, Fun of studying、知る楽しみ): The Forgotten Japanese (published in 1960 )(6/6)、忘れられた日本人 part6
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habit in Japan (published in 1968) (2/3)、食生活の歴史 part2
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