Ogimachi district at Shiragaka-go area in
central Japan, is one of the most popular tourist spots, due to its senary with
“Gagassho-zukuri” buildings (a large residence featuring a steep
thatched roof).
Most of walkers are travelers; most of
residents work for tourist industry such as inns and restaurants. I felt like
in a film set.
| I've finally come here. ついに来ました。稲穂が実っています。 |
初めて行った白川郷荻町集落は、合掌造りがよく残っていたと思う反面、歩行者は観光客、住民も民宿や商店など観光客相手の仕事。映画セットの中を歩いているような不思議な感じでした。白川郷は富山湾に注ぐ庄川沿いに数十の集落が点在する地域です。
I visited the Wada residence, and was surprised with the large sake (alcohol) vessels; locals have produced large quantities of *doburoku* (unrefined sake). Since there were not enough rice fields (material of sake), they have probably drunken on specific occasions.
和田家を訪ね、酒器の大きさにビックリ。どぶろくが多量に造られたようです。米はそんなにとれなかったはずなので、特定の行事で派手に飲んだのでしょうね。
It's Sunday, but the number of foreigners was more than it of Japanese.
日曜日でしたが、日本人より外国の方が多かったです。
Rice had been harvested, and was dried under the sun. The Gagassho-zukuri building in behind is a temple of Jōdo Shinshū sect with a strong presence in the region (Hokuriku).
収穫を終えた田んぼでははざがけ。蕎麦畑では白い花が咲いていました。奥の合掌造りは明善寺(みょうぜんじ)の庫裡。北陸地方に強い勢力を持つ浄土真宗のお寺です。
There is a grinding hut of rice and millet. It was designated as a traditional building, so it was used (not a model).
庫裡の前には、唐臼場。米、粟、ひえなどを搗きました。伝統的建造物22号なので、昔は使われていたのでしょう。
Shirakawa Hachiman Shrine is located at the south of the district. It was the shrine in the ancient time, wherein all deities in Shirakawa-go (forty three districts) were enshrined.
集落の南側にある白川八幡神社。古代は白川郷43ヵ村の総社でした。
The building on the left is a Shinto hall, whereas the one on the right is a Buddhism one. Two religions are in the same site.
神殿の隣に釈迦堂があります。廃仏毀釈の波は来なかったようですね。
The information board says, "Since ancient times, people have rejoiced in the autumn harvest, have brewed sacred sake from the new crop, and have offered to the deities; they have honored the deities and cherished nature.
Festivals are held to celebrate the autumn
reap with traditional performances like the lion dance. The main event, the 'Doburoku
Festival,' takes place annually on October 14th and 15th."
A sign at the stage-like building (right)
explains the origins of the festival: "In the past, the remote
region of Shirakawa-go was isolated and lacked transportation or any
entertainment. The villagers' sole pleasure was the freedom to brew doburoku
(unrefined sake). Men and women would drink, sing and revel together."
The Doburoku Festival is wonderful!
Tourists are also treated to doburoku
at the festival and performances enliven the atmosphere.
Doburoku Festival、どぶろく祭り:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MaB9-xsvZQ
由緒書によると“往昔依り、秋の豊作を喜び新穀で神酒を造り、神に捧げ神を敬い自然を愛し、人びと相互に秋の豊穣を喜び祝い、伝統の獅子舞等により神幸祭が催されます。例祭、どぶろく祭りは毎年十月十四、十五日両日に行われます。”とあります。
右側の舞台のような建物には、どぶろく祭りの由来として、“昔、秘境白川郷は交通の便が悪く僻地にしての娯楽は全くなく郷民の楽しみとしてどぶろくを自由に造り之を唯一の楽しみとして男も女もが歌ったりさわいだものであります。”と書かれています。
豊作を祝うどぶろく祭り。いいですねえ。
観光客にもどぶろくが振る舞われ、「白川おけさ」などの民謡も披露され、大盛り上がりですね。
Wada residence、和田家
The large house above is open to the public; Mr. Wada lives there even now. The building was probably built in the early 19th century. The clan was the head of manufacturing and sales of gunpowder material.
大型民家の和田家が公開されています。今も和田さんが住んでいますよ。江戸末期の建築と考えられています。焔硝(火薬原料)の製造販売を取りまとめた家です。
In the living room, tableware is displayed; it’s worth watching. Sorry to say, the reflection of the glass blocks you.
囲炉裏があるオエでは、食器類が展示されています。見応えがありました。しかし、写真はガラスの反射がひどくてすみません。
The tableware was used during Houon-kou, which is the important event of Jōdo Shinshū sect; the event is held on the anniversary of the founder (Shinran)'s death. Even in the mountain village, they have held the event with feast.
They would spend a lot for the event while they usually had frugal living. It’s the common life style in the old days to distinguish a festive day and usual days.
浄土真宗の重要行事、報恩講(親鸞聖人の命日)の食事です。何かと不便な山中ですが豪華なお膳でご馳走を食べました。ハレとケのメリハリを感じます。
The red tableware was for a monk.
お坊さんには赤のお膳。
The large sake cups on the upper shelf were used for celebratory occasions. It says, "Sake was passed around, starting with the smallest cup; finally, the largest cup was filled, drained, and then passed to the next guest." It's like a drinking party during my student days.
It is written about the large platter shown
on the lower shelf (bottom right) as follows: "A whole salt-grilled sea
bream (tai fish) was served and shared among the guests. It was a
rare and precious delicacy in the mountain village of Shirakawa-go." They
were able to enjoy sea fishes.
上段は祝事で使う大盃。“小さな盃から巡にまわし、最後は一番大きな盃に並々とお酒を注ぎ、呑み干して次のお客さまに回します”と書かれています。私の学生時代のコンパのようです。
下段・右下の大皿は、“尾頭付きの鯛を塩焼きにし、お客様に分け振る舞います。山国白川郷の貴重なご馳走でした。“と書かれています。鯛を食べられたのですね。
The production process of gunpowder material is explained in details; microorganism made it! After US fleet came to Japan in 1853, they increased the production and sent them to Tokyo for seven years.
焔硝の製造も詳しく説明されています。バクテリアが作ったのですね。ペリー来航以降は、焔硝を増産。高山陣屋経由で7年間、江戸へ送りました。
The view from the second floor is lovely! It relaxed me. And, the polished floor was so comfortable.
2階に上がると集落がよく見え、心を和ませてくれます。床も磨かれています。
Everyday goods such kitchenware are displayed under the thatched roof. The wooden dish buckets were used for Houon-kou (Buddhist memorial service).
萱葺き屋根の下に食器などの民具が展示されています。報恩講の料理を入れた楕円形の桶や酒樽などが展示されています。
The bowl above was used for making dumplings; the family crest is on its back.
蕎麦のこね鉢かと思いきや、団子を作るこね鉢でした。家紋付きです。
I went down the steep stairs.
急階段をおります。
The guest room on the first floor is prestigious; I felt the family’s great history. There is an entrance facility (shikidai) for precious guests.
1階の座敷。旧家の格式を感じます。式台もあります。
Samurai or monk probably entered from the formal entrance. Wada family live in the private area.
表玄関からは武士や僧侶が入ったのでしょう。和田氏は非公開エリアに住んでいます。
The clappers used for night patrols and its rules are also on display at left.
夜回りの拍子木とそのルールも展示されていす。
I had a lunch at the restaurant above. The set meal of fried tofu (upper left) was good and inexpensive.
ランチはいろりさんで焼豆腐定食(左上)。手頃なお値段でした。
Visited in October, 2025
Reference website: https://gokayama-info.jp/archives/1726
(in Japanese), accessed in October, 2026
Previous post (Village near Shirakawa-go): Ainokura village and Traditional Industry Museum、相倉集落と伝統産業館
Next post (A
house at Miboro district in Shirakawa-go): Former Toyama House Museum in
Shirakawa-go、白川郷・旧遠山住宅(Coming soon)
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