The museum has five historical buildings; “Inn for female workers” brought me there. Young women (mainly from 16 to 21 years old) got over the difficult pass (Nomugi Pass, 1672m) to work. They stayed at the inn which was at the foot of the pass. Sorry to say, I wrote a lot in this article than usual.
５棟の歴史的建造物を保存した屋外施設です。お目当ては、工女宿。飛騨の女性たちが野麦峠を越えて、諏訪などにある繊維工場と往復するときに泊まった宝来屋という宿です。野麦峠の松本市側、奈川地区川浦にありました。いつもよりも文章が長い記事になってしまいました。
The inn “Hourai-ya” was built in the mid-19th century, and was moved to the museum site in 1938. It was at a cold mountainous area, so wooden roof and stone weights were used. Because, roof tiles were frozen and broken.
宝来屋は江戸時代後期に建てられました。川浦は寒冷地で瓦が凍結などで割れるため石置きで板葺きの屋根になっています。
The entrance is on the right. 右側が玄関です。
Behind the entrance door, there is an earthen floor. The tubs on the wooden floor at left were used to make pickled vegetables for guests. There is a stable on the right.
玄関を入ると土間で、左側の板の間には漬物樽が置かれています。お客さん用です。右側は馬屋です。
Cattles and horses stayed at the stable. They carried goods to Kanto region in which there are cities including Tokyo. The village where the inn was had only 350 families, but it was said that it had 400 cattle and 80 drivers who guided cattle at its peak time. They were also travelers.
馬屋には、牛や馬がいました。奈川は尾張藩領だったので「尾州岡船」といって、宿場で荷物の取り次ぎをせず、直行便で関東まで荷を運ぶ人たちがいました。彼らも旅人ですね。奈川の牛稼ぎの最盛期は、350戸の村で、牛400頭、牛士80人といわれています。
The room (Idoko) above was a dining & bed room. Thick straw mats were laid and guests slept on them.
客室であり食事の場であった「いどこ」です。厚い筵を敷き、その上に寝ました。
The picture above shows how female workers stayed. More than a hundred women stayed at a maximum, they alternated in setting their heads. They dried clothes above the fire places, did shoes by fire places. They arrived at 4PM or 5PM, and left at 4AM or 5PM, however, they chatted a lot at night. It was four-day trip from their home to workplace (silk mill).
工女さんたちが「いどこ」に泊まっている挿絵があります。多い時には100人を超えたそうで、頭の位置を互い違いにして山小屋のように寝ています。服は囲炉裏の上で干し、草履は囲炉裏のそばで乾かしています。夕方４時か５時に宿に着き、翌朝の４時か５時には出発しました。夜は賑やかだったそうです。飛騨から工場まで、３泊４日の旅でした。
The tiny room above was used to mill mainly buckwheat (soba). The inn served soba cake, soba dumpling, cooked rice with millet, and so on. It is too cold to grow rice, so soba was a staple food. On the other hand, rice was transported from the lower land; it was precious food. Female workers had rice balls (onigiri) and left the inn.
By the way, there is a specialty called “Touji-soba” (upper left). The soba noodle is warmed just before eating in the boiled soup including duck-meat, vegetable and mushrooms. It’s good and is suitable for the cold area, however, it was served on a celebration day only such as wedding. Soba baked cake was frequently eaten because of easily cooking. In the 20th century, rice became a staple food even in this area.
粉を挽く部屋です。宝来屋では、蕎麦粉で作った餅、そばがき、あわやきびなどの雑穀と米を混ぜた飯を食べました。奈川は寒冷地で米ができず、そばが主食です。米は松本平から買いました。工女たちは雑穀を混ぜた握り飯を持って宿を出ました。
当地の名物に蕎麦のしゃぶしゃぶともいわれる「とうじ蕎麦」（左上、仙洛さん）があります。鴨肉と野菜・きのこを煮た鍋でそばを茹でます。これは美味いのですが、婚礼など祝い事のときの料理で、簡単に作れるやきもちで食べるのが日常的でした。昭和に入ると米が主流になりました。
At the next room of idoko above, we can hear a playback of a recording of a female worker who was born in 1895. She said, “It was a hard work. We competed our working speed (moreover, working hours in Suwa area was more than fifteen hours a day). Meanwhile, we earned wages, returned to home in New Year holidays, and enjoyed a quality time with family who welcome us. Our manager sometimes brought us a theater (movie or play). At the opportunity, we did our hair beforehand, we unwound from stress, enjoyed as much as possible.” It was a really fun time.
The inn's landlady remembered “Female workers looked so beautiful, because people in a mountainous area wore ragged clothes. I longed for them who worked in a silk mill factory.” She also went to a city to work. However, she returned in a year because of hevey work.
「いどこ」の続きの本座敷と中の間です。奥では、1895年生まれの工女さんの思い出話を聞けます（映画「あゝ野麦峠」の取材テープ）。仕事は糸引きのスピードを競い厳しものでした。また、諏訪では労働時間が15時間以上になるのが常でした。しかし、お金を稼いで年末に家に戻ると家族が喜んでくれ、正月を楽しんだとのこと。また、工場でお芝居に連れて行ってくれることがあり、「お髪もきれ～いに自分で結ってや、そして、そやって解放されたときは、腹いっぱい遊んでくる」と語っています。楽しいひとときですね。
そんな彼女たちですが、宿のおかみさんは、「泊まってく工女がとっても美しく見えてね。田舎の者は、ボロを着てみなれねシコ(格好)したったで、製糸家へ行ったらこんねに美しくなるずらかと思って憧れた」とのことです。でも、自分が岡谷市へ働きに行ってみると、たいへんで、１年で戻って来てしまいました。
Even in the 20th century, workers of silk industry mainly women accounted for the majority of guests. They stayed on the way to hometown in holiday seasons (New Year and Jun). Female workers started staying in around 1880’s; its peak time was in 1900’s. Due to the development of railway, the role as inn for female workers ended.
大正に入っても工女さんを中心とする製糸業の人たちが宿泊者の多くを占めました。年末の里帰り、6月の工場が休みのときの宿泊もありました。飛騨へ戻るときに泊まったのですね（1月の宿泊者は多くありません）。宝来屋さんの工女の利用は明治10年代に始まり、30年代がピーク。鉄道網の発達で、大正期に工女宿としての役割を終えました。
There is a signboard of a film “Nomugi Pass” which themed a female worker. The workers in a silk mill sat down while working, therefore, many of them suffered from digestive disease. On top of that, their legs got weak which meant they lost ability as a farmer.
By the way, there is a stone storage under the floor. Vegetables and so on were stored, which were important foods during long and severe winter.
更に進むと「あゝ野麦峠」の看板が展示された板の間です。女工さんというと辛い仕事のイメージですよね。座り続ける仕事なので消化器系の病気が多く足腰も弱くなり、農家としての身体能力は落ちたとのことです。
ところで、左下の床下は石室です。長く厳しい冬を乗り切るために野菜などを保存しました。
The inn has a room for an important guest, too.
板の間の隣りは座敷。上客用の部屋もあります。
The floor space of the second floor (above) is just 60㎡, while the one of the first floor is 209㎡. Guests stayed there at the peak time. There is a gap between the wall and the roof. It should be a cold room.
こちらは二階。一階の床面積が209㎡（63坪）あるのに対して二階は60㎡（18坪）です。混雑時には、こちらにも泊まりました。屋根と壁の間に隙間があって寒そう～。
Former silk mill、製糸工場
The small factory was built in 1925 and was operated until 1995. Fabric of kimono (traditional clothes) were made.
この建物は、1925年に諏訪に建てられ、1995年まで操業されていました。ニッチな着物地を作る小工場です。
Workers pulled out silk thread from cocoon in the room above. In around 1890s, women comprised 90% of workers; most of them were from 16 to 21 years old. On the other hand, men were engaged in carrying material and products; most of them were over twenty. At the prime time, there were scarce workers, so managers fought over keeping workers.
Life of female workers: They worked more than fourteen house, especially in Suwa area they did more than fifteen hours. I have to add, the working time at that time was much longer than now even in the other industries.
They usually had one or two days off a month, and had holidays during New Years, Bon season and a local shrine’s festival at their hometown. They stayed at a dormitory which supplied only 1.8 ㎡ for each. They had meal at factory cafeteria. The menu was basically rice, pickles and miso soup. Dried fish and vegetables were sometimes served.
繰糸場、左上は1964年の写真です。工女たちもこのような仕事をしていたのですねえ。明治後期の製糸工場では、工女が9割（16～21歳が多い）、荷物運びなどをする工男は1割（20歳以上が多い）でした。最盛期は工女さんが強奪されるほどの人手不足で、北信、新潟からも工女を集めました。
女工さんの暮らし：労働時間は14時間を下回ることはなく、諏訪地方では15時間以上も常でした（ちなみに当時は、製糸業の労働時間だけが長かったわけではありません）。
休暇は、年末年始、旧盆、氏神の祭りに加え、毎月1，2回の定期休業でしたが、諏訪地方では定期休業がない工場が多くありました。工場主は、諏訪は寒冷地なので1，2月は工場を休むからと説明していました。
寄宿工女スペースは一人一畳。食事は米飯と味噌汁、漬物が基本で（諏訪の場合）、ときどき野菜や干し魚が出された。
Former Matsumoto district court、旧松本区裁判所
It is the largest building in the museum site, which was moved from the city center. We can go inside the courtroom.
Btw, the young female workers went over
high mountains behind on foot and worked at silk mill. I understand how it was
delight for them to go over the mountains again, to bring their earnings to their
home, and to enjoy time with family.
1876年に建てられたが旧裁判所が目を惹きます。法廷にも入れます。お城の横にありました。
二十歳前後の工女さんたちは、建物の後ろに見える北アルプスを徒歩で越えて、信州に働きに来たのですね。給料を持って実家に戻って、家族と過ごす時間が一番楽しかったというのも分かります。
Visited in December, 2023
Official website: https://matsu-haku.com/rekishinosato/
(in Japanese), accessed in June, 2024
Previous post (history and folklore museum in the same city): Matsumoto
Folk Craft Museum、松本民芸館
Next post (old former private house in the same city): Baba residence in Nagano、馬場家住宅（松本市）
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