Kiso-Fukushima was a post-town on Nakasendou highway which linked Edo (old name of Tokyo) and Kyoto. It is in Nagano prefecture of central Japan. Kiso-Fukushima is a center of “Kiso” region at Kiso Valley.
Although Kiso-Fukushima is a tourist spot,
only I was a visitor of the museum at the foot of a mountain. However, I
could know lots about trips, the post-town and lives in mountainous area.
Moreover, the house which was brought from Kaida Highland made me image
their daily life. Although Kiso is a cold area, people have kept livelihood
for long time.
観光地の木曽福島から少し山側で、平日のせいか訪問者は私だけでした。でも、木曽の暮らしがよく分かりおすすめです。旅のようす、宿場の暮らし、山の暮らし、そして開田高原から移築された民家があり、生活を実感できました。冬は寒い土地ですが、なんとかかんとか生きてきたのですね。
Main building、本館
Lacquer-ware are packed in the first floor. Kiso-Fukushima is said the birthplace of Kiso lacquer-ware. The article (lower left), which is probably used to carry foods and beverage, attracts me.
一階には、木曽漆器がぎっしり。福島八沢町は木曽漆器の発祥地といわれています。食べ物を運ぶような気になる一品（右下）もありましたよ。
The exhibits in the second floor are categorized.
二階の展示室では、テーマ毎に展示品が並べられています。
Trips in old days and Ontake kou、むかしの旅と御嶽講
The people who worship the deity of Mt. Ontake have organized Ontake kou (religious group, on the left). It’s a crucial theme here.
御嶽講（右側）は旅と並ぶテーマになっています。
Travelers in the Edo period (1603～1868) hung the articles upper right (coin purse, pen and so on) at their waist. If I did, I would lose them soon.
上段の品々を腰に下げて旅をしたそうです。落としそうですね。
They had their belongings in the bags on the left. They also had lunch boxes, which are called three jars.
左側２個は手回り品を入れた行李、右は弁当箱です。三つ壺とありますから、三つの小箱を指すのでしょうか、中に三つの壺があるのでしょうか。
The paper raincoat is waterproof, because oil was coated. They walked even in a rainy day.
旅行用品の中の「油合羽」。雨の日も歩きました。
The document above was a passport issued in 1874. The system continued after the Edo period (1603～1868) when shogun ruled Japan; the domestic passport was abolished now. A man of Kiso-Fukushima traveled to Tokyo, Izu and so on.
明治7年に発行された往来券です。関所は廃止されましたが、旧制は残っていたのですね。木曽（旧岩郷村）の人が、伊豆国や武蔵国などへ行きました。
Faith in Mt. Ontake have spread since 19th century. Two ascetics (gyoja) who lived in Tokyo and in Nagoya area were engaged in missionary work; their names were Fukan and Kakumei. The Ontake kou continues even until now.
御嶽信仰は、江戸末期から広まりました。尾張の覚明行者、江戸の普寛行者などが布教に努めたそうです。キーマンはいるものですね。御嶽講社は今も続いています。
Ritual utensils and membership certificates are exhibited.
祭具や御嶽講社の社員証です。
The statues on the right were worshiped in faith in Mt. Ontake. The faith penetrated into people, so there were several ascetics (yamabushi) in each village. They chanted a spell and prayed for people.
I like the drawing on the left. A servant of samurai sleeps in front of a sake cup.
右側の役行者像と不動明王像は、御嶽信仰で崇拝されていたものです。民衆の支持を集め、各村に数名ずつ呪文を唱え祈祷をする山伏がいるようになりました。
左上の戯画（司通）に惹かれました。奴が猪口を前に寝そべっています。ゆるい絵ですね。
The stamp book in upper center was the memorial of the pilgrimage in which a person visits sixty-six sacred places and offers a copy of a sutra. Mr. Ono in Kiso-Fukushima achieved it in 1702; he walked across Japan for two years. It says the one is the oldest red stamp book of the pilgrimage. Men longed for the long journey back then, I can say.
「大乗妙典六十六部納経帳」（上中央）という冊子があり、福島宿の小野久助さんが、1702年から２年かけて全国66カ所巡りをしたときの納経帳で、朱印を押したものとしては最古のものとあります。御嶽信仰というより、六部の巡礼、憧れの長旅でもあったようです。
Transportation of Kiso highway in the Edo period (1603～1868)、江戸時代の交通（木曽路）
A map of Fukushima post-town and so on are displayed.
福島宿地図などが展示されています。
Post-town、宿場
Suit of drawings of Fukushima post-town and bulletin boards.
福島宿の絵図と高札が展示です。
Inn for daimyo lords and toiya logistic center、本陣と問屋
We can know about a lot concerning the post-town. The wooden sign board (upper right) was put on an official luggage, which meant how important it was.
宿場を知るさまざまな品が展示されてとても興味深かったです。一点上げると、公用荷物につけた絵符。荷物の格が上がりますね。初めて見ました。
An express messenger used the breastplate above, and run on a highway. It’s flashy; he passed travelers at full speed. The occupation was called hikyaku; “hi/飛” means flying and “kyaku/脚” means legs.
もう一点、飛脚の胸当です。どけどけ、と威勢よく旅人を追い越して走ったのでしょうね。目立ちます。どこの紋かわからないのですが、火消しの胸当も同じ紋でした。
Vehicle (palanquin, horse, cow and so on)、乗り物
It’s a unique classification of exhibits. The heater for hands (lower right) was used in a palanquin. It is funny to imagine how the passenger used it; a palanquin pitched and rolled because bearers run.
The lantern (upper right) was used by a carrier who led several cows and carried luggage. It is written “Bishu” which means it was authorized by Owari-han (powerful local government). I guess robbers hesitated to take the luggage. Even so, it was a severe work to carry and walk at night in old days.
おもしろい括り方です。宿駕籠の中に置かれている手炉には、「道中手あぶり」と説明があります。駕籠は高速で揺れましたが、使えたのですね。
尾州名入り中牛の提灯（右上）は、「尾州岡船とよばれた木曽の奈川や神谷、馬篭（まごめ）の牛方たちが夜間通行に際してつかったもの」と書かれています。尾州・尾張藩の鑑札（免許証）の威光がならず者を寄せ付けなかったのでしょうか。それにしても、夜も荷を運ぶとは、大変なことです。
The post-town was also the base of climbing Mt. Ontake for the worshippers. The palanquin on the left was light in order to climb mountain easily.
福島宿は、御嶽登拝の宿場でもあり、山道でも使える軽い山かご（右上）が作られていました。
The photo above is set in front of the palanquin. The passengers wear formal kimono; they look wealthy. The building in behind is an inn. There are many banners not only for advertisement but also for kou (worshipper group). Many people climbed Mt. Ontake for worship more than now.
山かごの前の写真です。乗っている人は、紋付き袴でお金を持ってそうですね。旅籠の前には、まねきや講社の幟があがっています。御嶽山にお参りする人が多かったのですね。
Accommodation facility、休泊施設
Inn associations for staying safely and utensils of inns are displayed. I can imagine people’s trip and life in the old days.
浪華講などの旅行組合と、陶器の枕や灯具などの旅館の什器が紹介されています。どれも、人々の旅、生活を感じさせてくれます。
Towners' life、町人の生活
There are many combs which are specialty of the post-town. There is also a moon-lute at upper right. A towner played it or a geisha girl played it for travelers, I’m not sure.
名物の櫛が目立ちますが、坂本龍馬の妻・お龍さんも引いていた月琴（右上）も展示されていました。町人の趣味なのか、旅籠のもてなしなのか。
Industry of the post-town、福島宿の産業
Lacquerware industry has developed under Kiso clan (war lord) since 650 years ago. It is written, “Although it’s not nice looking, it is sturdy. The products were delivered to Edo (old name of Tokyo), Osaka, Nagoya and so on.” I don’t agree; those are nice looking products. Everyone enjoys to own them.
福島宿八沢町の漆器業は木曽氏の保護のもと約650年前から発達しました。ここでつくられた製品は桧の良材を利用した春慶塗（木目を出す透明塗）で、「見栄えは悪いが堅ろうであることで知られ、江戸、大阪、名古屋等へ広く売りさばかれていた」と書かれています。そんなことないです。よい品です。みなさんに大切にされたと思います。
Kiso horse and industry、木曽馬と馬小作
The flag in center was raised at a seller booth in a horse market.
中央の「馬屋標旗」は、馬市場で売主の小屋に掲げられた旗です。
In January, wood sticks (left) and straw (right) were offered to “Batou (horse head) Kannon (Kannon Bodhisattva)” and so on. I know how they loved horses. The stone at upper right is called “Ba (horse) kuso (shit) ishi (stone)”. It is a stone formed inside a horse. The legend says, “The stone reflects an invader behind you and help you.”
小正月に馬頭観音などに供えた太根（左）、正月14日の年取りに供えた「けずりかけ」（右）。馬を育てる人の気持ちが伝わります。右上は、馬糞石。馬の結石で、この玉を机上に置くと、背後から忍び寄る者を映しだし、危害から救ってくれるという伝承があります。
Farmers’ life、農民の生活
The spears were useful for farmers in mountain area. Two kinds of spears are exhibited.
熊と猪で槍が違いました。似ていますが、使い分けていたのでしょうか。山の暮らしですね。
The baskets and nets were used to catch birds. Decoy birds were put inside the baskets, and sang to call in migratory ones. The method is prohibited now, because protected birds are also caught.
Prince Koretaka was drawn on the hanging scroll. It is said that he authorized woodturner to cut trees across Japan. A person who had the scroll freely cut trees.
右はかすみ網とおとりの鳥を入れる籠です。おとりの鳴き声を聞いてくる渡り鳥を捕まえる作戦です。効果的ですが、保護鳥も捕ってしまうので、現在は禁止されています。
左は、木地師にどこの山でも木を切ることを許した惟喬親王の掛け軸です。これがあれば木を切れたようですが、本当に親王が許可したかどうかはなぞです。
武士の生活
Tools and outfits of samurai are exhibited. The articles at lower right are hanging Buddha.
右下は懸仏さんです。
Outdoor exhibition、屋外展示
It’s also fruitful for me. I followed the route. The wooden building is the shrine of the mountain deity.
これまた充実しています。順路に沿って進みます。奥の建物は、山の神社です。
Mountain deity faith penetrates into villages in Kiso region. There are many kinds of worship ways such as enshrining tree. The wooden statues of mountain deities (mother and children) were made as exhibits.
木曽の山村では、山の神信仰が根強く、樹木そのものを祀るなどいろいろな形があります。展示用に製作された母子の木彫像が社殿に納められています。
The house above was brought from Kaida Highland which is 17km away from the museum. It was a private house.
開田高原から移築された大屋根民家へ向かいます。
I’m sorry the floor plan above is blurry. I entered the house from the right side (indigo triangle). The living room, which has two irori fireplaces, locates in center. The other rooms surround it. The stable is in a sunny place of the house; manure (fertilizer) was made there. It’s is written in the explanation panel that it might smell bad a bit.
ボケてしまいましたが、平面図です。だいどころの縁側から、家に入りました（青い三角）。囲炉裏がある居間を中心にし、部屋で囲んでいます。うまやは日当たりがよい南側で、堆肥を作りました。「での、ちょっと臭いかも」とパネルに書いていました（笑）。
The living room is large for a Japanese house. Many daily utensils are exhibited in the house.
広いだいどころ（居間）には囲炉裏が二つあります。家の中には、民具が所狭しと置かれています。
The Buddhist altar is in the living room. They lived always with ancestors.
仏壇は、だいどころに面していて、賑やかな場所です。ご先祖様がいつも一緒ですね。
The small room behind the altar is called “kami (deity) beya (room)”. It was a sacred room; women refrained to enter the room.
仏壇の奥の荒神の部屋（カミベヤ）は神聖な場所で、女性の立入はひかえられたとのこと。
The small room above is a delivery room. It is written, “During menstruation and delivery, a women lived here. Ordinary woman did them in a special cabin which was owned by her community, so it was rare to equip such room.” They were wealthy, weren’t they?
ウブヤ（産屋）は初めて見ました。狭いです。「女性の生理期間中や出産の時に起居した部屋で普通は集落共有または個人の「ヒヤ」と呼ぶ独立家屋を持っておりこの例は特別である」と書かれていました。豊かな家だったのですね。
The storage room above is behind the delivery room. There are many exhibits.
ウブヤの奥は、ものおき。展示品がたくさんあります。
The kitchen above has a wooden floor, although most of them in Japan has an earthen floor back then.
台所は土間でなく、板の間です。
There is gap between roof and wall. The exhaust from irori fireplace smoked the wooden roof, mothproofed and went out. It was probably cold to live in the house.
屋根と壁は隙間があり、屋根材をいぶした煙が排気されます。でも、寒そう。
The house is a great exhibit. If utensils which were used such kind of houses were displayed in their places, I could imagine their life vividly.
素晴らしい展示でしたが、この家で使っていそうなものだけが展示されていれば、生活感を掴みやすかったと思います。
Official website: https://www.town-kiso.com/facility/100026/ (in Japanese)
Goryokan、御料館
“Goryokan” means an imperial household office. All forest in Kiso region was surrendered to the Imperial Household from the samurai lord after the Edo period (1603～1868) when a shogun ruled Japan. The office was built back then. A room of an office chief and a main conference room were restored.
明治に入り、皇室の財産となった木曽の山林を管理した帝室林野局木曽支局庁舎です。支局長室や大会議室が復元されています。
Creatures in Kiso region and the model of Kiso Valley and so on are exhibited.
展示室では、木曽の動物や内国勧業博覧会（明治14年）に出展された木曽谷模型が展示されています。
Official website: https://www.town-kiso.com/facility/100023/ (in Japanese)
Visited in August, 2023
Previous post (museum in the same town): Kiso-Fukushima
checkpoint museum、福島関所資料館
Next post (museum in the same town): Kaida Folk Museum、開田郷土館
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