There is Kagiya Museum beside Yodo River
which flows from Kyoto to Osaka.
There is
an embankment in front of Kagiya now, but in the Edo period, the ships
could access to Kagiya directly.
淀川。鍵屋前から京都側を望む。この日は、大きな穏やかな流れだった。淀川堤防を隔てたところに鍵屋はある。江戸時代は、鍵屋を出たところが船着き場であった。
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| Yodo River、淀川の上流（京都）側 |
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| Bank of the Yodo River and Kagiya museum 淀川堤防と鍵屋資料館 |
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| The model of Kagiya in the Edo period which had a port 鍵屋の模型 |
Hirakata shuku(post town) was located in the middle of Kyoto and Osaka. Kagiya was an inn
in which people waited for ships which went to Kyoto or Osaka. The current building
of Kagiya was built in 1811. Kagiya was famous for its cuisine and entertainment. In the old
song, it was said “We don’t need anchor to stop at Kagiya port. Kagiya stops our
ships by the sound of shamisen guitars and taiko drams.” It was cool. Kagiya was
changed to the museum in 1997, we can take lunch even now if we make a
reservation.
Hirakata
shuku was a busy town because there was a lot of traffic between two big cities
on the Yodo River and Kyo highway which connected Kyoto and Osaka. There were
good cuisine and ladies that entertained travelers. Getting on the ships,
drinking, dancing, I found lots of fun of old Japanese here.
・枚方宿は、京都と大阪の中間にあり、淀川の川べりにある。この地で淀川を往来する船を待つ「船待ち宿」営んでいたのが鍵屋で、1811年に建てられた建物が資料館になっている。「淀川三十石船唄」では、「鍵屋浦には碇が要らぬ、三味や太鼓で船止める」とうたわれたと言う。粋ではないか。1997年までは料理旅館を営んでおり、資料館になった今でも、予約をすれば二階の大広間で料理（ランチ）を出してもらえる。
・江戸時代に人口30万人規模で江戸に次ぐ大阪と京都を結ぶ航路及び京街道上にあって往来が多かった枚方宿。人をもてなす料理屋や女性がたくさんいたようで、大阪や京都から遊びに来る場所にもなっていたらしい。舟に乗って、飲んで騒いで、宿場に集まった人々の楽しみを大いに感じた。
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| The main building of Kagiya (view from the Kyo highway) 京街道から見た鍵屋の主屋 |
The photo
above was Kagiya in the early 20th century.
大正時代の鍵屋。提灯の紋が三つ葉葵に見える。
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| Entrance of the main-building、主屋の玄関 |
There was a kitchen on the left side, there were three waiting rooms on
the right side. I found a tub to wash foot. People washed feet here, then got
on the floor.
左側が台所、右はお客さんの船待ち場所。足洗いの盥も置いてある。
The picture
above was Hirakata shuku which was on the old guidebook of eastern Osaka. On
the floor, some were drinking, some were dancing, some were playing the
shamisen guitar and the taiko dram. Everyone looked happy. On the riverside, a
guy cooked a big fish. Isabella Lucy Bird who traveled Japan in the late 19thcentury was amazed that Japanese had a noisy party at an inn. This picture
remembered me the story.
In the Edo
period, Hirakata shuku had 380 houses which included 70 inns. People near
Hirakata visited and stayed to enjoy entertaiment. There were delicatessens,
tool shops, utensil shops, soy sauce shops, sake licure shops and oil shops.
There were two
passages quated from diaries of foreigners.
In 1691,
Engelbert Kaempfer who was German wrote his diary which described the travel to
Edo (Tokyo). He mentioned “There are many inns and restaurants here, we can
drink tea or sake with cheap price. We can eat various warm dishes, and every
shops have young and dressed women.”
After 130
years, Siebold who was a German doctor described “Hirakata is a large village
where people in Osaka visit often for entertainment. Many prostitutes were
beside the street. When I was at the head of the procession, they were curious
to me, so they came to the entrances. I could see them well.” I can easily
imagine women were curious about the western gentleman, whereas he was more
curious about those women. Siebold had Japanese wife and
daughter whose name was Ine. He was deported because he tried to bring out
Japanese map. After thirty years, he visited Japan again and met his wife and
daughter. However, he made his maid pregnant who was only nineteen. Ine was
disappointed in him. Anyway, he was so vigorous.
He praised the scenery. “The circumstances of Hirakata is very beautiful. The Yodo River reminded me the valley of the Main River in my homeland.”
He praised the scenery. “The circumstances of Hirakata is very beautiful. The Yodo River reminded me the valley of the Main River in my homeland.”
「河内名所図会」の枚方宿。酒を飲む人、踊っている人、三味線や太鼓を奏でる人。座敷は賑やかだ。水辺では魚をさばいている人が居る。提灯を持っているので、夜の景色だ。明治の初めに北日本を旅した女性・イザベラ・バードは、旅の宿での日本人の宴会の大騒ぎに驚いていた。まさにその風景か。
江戸時代の枚方宿には380の家があり、そのうち70軒もが旅籠であったという。旅籠の割合が多く、近隣からの遊び客でも賑わったらしい。もちろん、煮売屋、道具屋、荒物屋、醤油屋、酒屋、油絞り屋もあった。
1691年、ドイツ人ケンペルEngelbert Kaempferの「江戸参府旅行日記」には、「ここにはたくさんの旅館や料理屋があり、わずかな銭で茶や酒を飲み、又いろいろな温かい食べ物を食べることができるし、どの店にも、めかした若い女中がいる」と書かれているという。
また、130年後に通行したシーボルトの「1826年の江戸参府紀行」によると、「枚方は大坂の人たちが遊楽地として大変よく訪れる大きな村で、そのためどの通りにも売春婦がいっぱいいる。私が行列の先頭に立って進んでいった時に、彼女たちは好奇心に駆られてみんな戸口の前に出ていたので、なおさら女たちが良く見えた」とある。西洋人を見る女郎の好奇心は分かるが、シーボルトの好奇心もなかなかのものだ。シーボルトは日本人の妻・瀧と娘イネを持っていたが、日本地図を持ち出そうとして日本を追放された。30年後、63歳で再来日して、妻子と再会するが、19歳の使用人を妊娠させて、イネをがっかりさせたという。元気なものだ。
The photo above
was the remade model of the dinner served to four samurais in 1830 by the
village head Jinbei. The main dish was a boiled buri fish ( species of
yellowtail) with ankake source. It was a very good cuisine back then. Samurais
would have enjoyed.
1830年、前庄屋仁兵衛が、紀州藩の武士2人と長持ち預かり4人を泊めたときの夕食の再現。鰤のあんかけをメインに、立派なお膳だ。武士には嬉しいもてなしであっただろう。
Next photo
was the five layers of makie gold-lacquered boxes and lids for food. So beautiful.
蒔絵の五段重箱と蓋。何を提供したのか、美しい。
Tableware
used in Kagiya. It might be a bit luxury.
鍵屋で使われていた陶器。やや高級か。
Tobacco ware box. It might be a luxury goods.
煙草盆、良い品だと思う。
The following
two photos were utensils for ohaguro make-up. Married women painted the teeth
black until the 19th century. I saw these utensils first time. Those were
gorgeous goods too.
初めて見たお歯黒の道具。大きな容器は、耳盥（たらい）という名で、口を漱いだり手を洗う時に使ったそうな。容器の上にある渡し金に乗せられている二品。右側のポットに入れた液を左側の容器に入れてから歯に塗ったようだ。いずれにせよ、高級感があふれる道具である。
江戸時代、お歯黒は既婚女性のしるしであった。酢酸に溶かして酸化させた「鉄漿水（かねみず）」と「五倍子粉（ふしのこ）」を交互に、或いは混ぜて歯に塗るが、鉄漿水は臭気が強く、「五倍子粉」はタンニンの渋みが強いので、頻繁に口を漱いだとあった。
The next photo
showed the sake (Japanese wine) notes and the wooden block for printing. One
sake note was worth of one big bottle of sake. It was utilised as a gift. Sake
has been a preferable gift. Only “sake” was written on the left note, but on the right note, it
was written “branded sake”. There were various brands and grade of sake.
酒切手とその版木である。酒切手を持参すると酒一升と交換できたので、贈答品として利用された、とある。酒は、当たり外れない贈答品だったのだなあと思う。左側の酒切手には「一酒」と記載、右側は「名酒何がし」とある。今と同じで、ブランドがあったようだ。
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| In side of the museum、展示品がある別棟の中央廊下 |
Traffic by the Yodo River
seemed to be the inexpensive mass transportation system between Kyoto and Osaka.
淀川の舟運。京と大阪を結ぶ、安価な大量輸送手段だったようだ。
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| Map of the Yodo River、淀川の水運 |
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| Sanjyu-koku bune、三十石船 |
The ship
which run between Kyoto and Osaka was called “Sanjyu-koku bune” which meant the
maximum carrying capacity of the ship was 4.5 ton. Actually, the passenger capacity was
28 and four sailors got on. Workers pulled the ship on this picture, so this
ship headed to Kyoto which is on the upstream side of Osaka.
At
Hirakata, a boat approached to the ship and sold sake, moti cake and so on.
Sellers cried very dirty local language. The boat was called “Kurawanka! boat”.
“Kurawanka!” means “Eat this!” by my translation. It was accepted by
travellers, and it was popular back then.
The picture
below was a copy of the printing of the ship and the boat by famous Ukiyoe
creator Hiroshige. Everyone looked happy. Travel by ship was big fun!
京大阪を結ぶ三十石船（船員四人、乗客定員28人）を人が引いている。上流の京都に向かうのだ。三十石船がが枚方に来ると「くらわんか舟」が近づいてくる、「酒くらわんか、餅くらわんか」などと汚い河内弁で声を掛け、食べ物を売りに来る。
下は、1834年、広重作の三十石船とくらわんか舟の絵（複写）。みんな楽しそう。旅はもともと楽しい。
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| The full scale model of Kurawanka ship、くらわんか舟 |
They sold dumplings, soups and sake.
だんごや煮もの、焼き物、酒を売っている。
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| Tableware of Kurawanka boats、くらわんか茶碗 |
長崎で作られたが、くらわんか舟で使われたことから、この名になったとのこと。
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| License board of Kurawanka boats、くらわんか舟の鑑札 |
茶舟＝くらわんか舟の株を持っていることを示す鑑札。どこでも権利はありますねえ。（１８３４＆１８５９年）
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| Licence of the Kurawanka boat、茶舟株の証文 |
Anytime, anyone is required a licence for business.
The picture
below showed the guidebook for the river cruising which was published in 1837.
Before the travel and during the travel, it would be fun to see the guidebook.
There were no detailed picture, so people would have imagined the view from the
ship.
淀川クルージングの案内、登舩独案内（のぼりふねひとりあんない、1837年刊）。景色を見ながら読む、景色を見る前に読む。ガイドブックの楽しみです。写真は当然ないけど、詳細な絵がないのも、読者の想像力を駆り立てます。
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| The book of poems on Sanjyukoku bune、三十石興歌集 |
The book was published in 1850. The thoughts and memories in
the ship would have been described. It looked lovely.
1850年刊。舟での思いを唄ったものだろうか。楽しそうだ。
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| The ship of the Korean diplomat、朝鮮通信使の船 |
There were
aoi crests, which shogun used, on the curtains and banners of the ship. It was
written on the caption, “The cruising of the ships was the big attraction at
that time. Many people came to see the ships.” The Korean delegation consisted
of 300 to 500 members. After they arrived at Osaka, they got on special ships.
The number of ships was about one hundred. Who followed the delegation?
The number of
the ships for the delegation from Okinawa was one fourth of it for Korean.
当時、見ものだったのは、朝鮮通信使と琉球使節の淀川運航。葵御紋が入った大変な船だ。「一大イベントでした。沿岸は見物客であふれました・・・」とある。朝鮮通信使は、300～500人の大使節団で、大阪に着くと、「川御座船」に乗り換え、約１００艘からなる大船団を組んで京都に進んだそうだ。一艘平均３～５人の使節団員。他は誰が乗ってたんや？
琉球使節は、王の代替わりの時に派遣され、朝鮮通信使の１/４の規模の船団だったという。
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| The map of Hirakata shuku、枚方宿復元図 |
The
primary mission of Hiraka shuku was to provide workers and horses to the
government. The officers who had passports issued by the shogun, high officials
and magistrate of the highway could hire carriers and horses without fee.
Others paid official fee while the daimyo war lords also paid. Lastly ordinary people
negotiated the rate, but it was two times as higher as the official rate.
Inhabitants
near Hirakata shuku supplied carriers and horses. Those were heavy charge for
them. In
Hirakata, 90% of traffic was bound for Kyoto. People would have use ships when
they went to Osaka.
枚方宿の運営。宿の元来の役割は幕府への人馬の提供である。将軍が発行する御朱印を持つ役人、老中など幕府高官が発行する御証文を持つ役人、道中奉行が認める御用の役人は、人馬の賃銭は無料だ。それ以外の役人、大名の通行は公定賃銭となる。一般の人々は相対賃銭となり、公定賃銭の約二倍で利用したという。
枚方宿は、陸路で大名行列、御金銀通行（幕府の御金蔵や鴻池屋などの金銀）、長崎奉行荷物（献上品）、献上備後畳表などが通る。近隣の人は人馬を出さねばならず、大変だったそうだ。また、枚方宿は、京に上る通行が人では９割（大阪へは船利用か）、馬では８割であり、上下の通行量が不均衡な「片宿」と書かれていた。
These were
copies of daimyo’s seals which were needed to rent carriers and horses in
Hirakata shuku.
枚方宿印鑑帳（複製）。宿の人馬を利用するために、通行前に指名印鑑を送り、通行当日は問屋場に押印手形を呈示する。問屋場では、印鑑を照合して通行人を確認し、人馬を提供する仕組みであった。加賀藩などの大名の判がある。
This was the
model of daimyou procession of Kishu han which was located in Wakaya
prefecture. One thousand five hundred samurais followed their daimyou.
紀州藩の大名行列は混雑を避けるためひと月早い三月に行われた。１５００人規模で、その模型が置いてある。
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| Vehicle of the daimyou、藩主の駕籠 |
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| Inside the museum |
These exhibition rooms were guest rooms. Things of
Kagiya were exhibited.
別棟に入ったところ。料亭時代は個室の客間だったそうです。料亭時代の品々の展示があります。
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| Kannon statue、子安観音像（伝聖母マリア像） |
It was actually a statue of the Virgin Mary. The
Catholic was prohibited in the Edo period, however some people worshipped
it. It was the first time for me to see the portable Catholic statue. It was amazing.
仏教でない持仏像は初めて見た。キリスト教が禁じられていた中で、驚きである。
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| The officer’s house、問屋役人の家 くらわんか舟の「茶舟鑑札」を所持していた。 |
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| Near Kagiya、枚方宿鍵屋付近 |
There are good cafes and accessory shops now.
今もおしゃれなカフェや小物屋もある素敵な通りだ。
13 funs(楽Fun) were found. Visited in May, 2018
http://kagiya.hirakata-kanko.org/ (in Japanese), accessed in August, 2020
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ordinary people’s life) :
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Yodo River Museum 淀川資料館
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