Chikuni is the northern end of Nagano prefecture in central Japan. In the Edo period (1603～1868), an inland domain (Matsumoto-han) established a checkpoint in order to impose a transit-duty on the road called Chikuni kaido a.k.a Salt Road. The road linked an inland city Matsumoto and a coast city Itoigawa, so seafoods and mountain products were transported through the road. The checkpoint took a role to stop robbers and beggars.
The checkpoint was rebuilt. And a large private house was moved behind the checkpoint, which is open to the public as a historical and folklore museum. Everyday goods and utensils are displayed, so we can know how they enjoyed a party and so on.
塩の道（千国街道）の千国番所は、旧松本藩の北の端、越後との国境にあり、松本領に出入りする物資に対する運上金を徴収するのが大きな仕事でした。また、乞食、盗賊などが入るのを防ぎ、領内の治安を維持しました。番所が復元されています。
番所の奥には、旧家を曳家で移動し、民具などを展示しています。お膳にお椀、徳利などがさりげなく置かれていて、宴会を楽しんだ様子をうかがえます。
Once we go into the checkpoint, we can find samurai officers who check passport and gather tax.
番所に入ると手形改めと運上金を取り立てる役人が座っています。
In front of the office, transportation equipment and so on are exhibited. Carriers shouldered 50 to 60 kg of loads and walked the road.
The panels on the wall show us about the
road. The levy varied, interestingly. Concerning salt,
the inland domain required to pay tariff in salt because they could not produce
salt in their domain. On the other hand, there were three kinds of levies on fishes,
which were paid by cash. Highest levy was charged on salmon, trout, tai
(snapper) and squid; the lowest one was done on sardine and tuna (tuna is very
popular now).
改め場所の土間には荷を背負って千国街道を歩いた歩荷（ぼっか）の道具が並べられています。50～60kg担いだといいます。
その後ろには、千国街道の説明があり、塩は一駄（160kgほど）につき塩３升２合から４升（約７kg）の課税です。塩がとれない松本藩は現物納入を要求しました。米と同じです。一方、魚は上中下の三等に分けて現金での納入。一駄につき「上」は百文、「下」は五十文を上限としました。鱒、鮭、いか、鯛が上。鮪はなぜか鰯と同じく「下」に分類されています。
Behind the checkpoint, there are Chikuni local museum (left) and a salt storehouse (right).
番所の裏には千国の庄史料館（左）と塩蔵（右）があります。
Salt storehouse、塩蔵
Collected salt was stored in the house.
税として徴収した塩を保管します。
There is a pit to store bittern which drains out from salt. The bittern (nigari) is used to make tofu, which solidifies soymilk.
塩から滴り落ちるニガリを回収するためのピットが設けられています。無駄がないですねえ。
Chikuni local museum、千国の庄史料館
Exhibits are displayed in the former private house which was built after the big fire in the mid-19th century. There is a stable in the earthen floor.
19世紀中頃の千国の大火の後に建てられた豪壮な民家に展示品が置かれています。土間に入ると馬屋があります。
The wooden floor rooms and the innermost tatami mat ones were spaces for business and everyday life; the family run a sake (liquor) brewery.
その先は居住スペース。酒屋を営んでいたので商家でもありますね。
The trays were used during a celebration party (left), an annual event (center) and a memorial service (right); the trays were set in front of every attendee. There are forty lacquered bowls in each wooden box in behind. A banquet was held in the house, although such a big party is held at a hotel now.
台所では、用途別のお膳（手前）、食器棚には40人分の輪島塗お椀セットなどが収納されています。店が無い時代、大きな会が開かれたのですね。
The innermost guest room was a formal one. The large tray on the upper right was served at the end of the party. Attendees enjoyed meals!
奥の座敷はフォーマルな場所です。床の間には宴会で使われる広盆が置かれています（右上）。ご馳走を食べて、大盛り上がりだったと思います。
Sake bottles are just casually put at the corner of the living room. The
kettle was used to keep sake in it. It’s
too big, how much sake they drank!
茶の間の隅には徳利がさりげなく置かれています。ヤカンサイズの銚子で酒をあおったのでしょうか。
Visited in July, 2024
Reference site: https://info-otari.jp/salt-road/
(in Japanese. Automatic translation is attached), accessed in August, 2024
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local museum、小谷村郷土館
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