The legendary samurai “Kiso Yoshinaka” (Minamoto no Yoshinaka, 1154-1184) grew up here; his lineage led to an emperor. He rebelled against Taira clan (Heishi)here who ruled Japan back then. Therefore, the town would be familiar with many Japanese. Because, we learned the legend in school. (Revised in July, 2024)
宮ノ越宿は、木曽義仲(源義仲)が育ち、旗揚げをした場所にある宿場です。木曽義仲の遺跡があり、平家物語を知る旅人にとっては感慨深い場所だったと思います。今は、静かな町です。2024年7月改訂(加筆)。
There is a deep pool in Kiso River at the north end of Miyanokoshi. It is said that a beautiful girl swam here; she also rode on a horse and run around fields and hills. Her name is “Tomoe” and supported “Kiso Yoshinaka” for a lifetime. The legend says that a dragon which resided here transformed itself to “Tomoe” and supported “Kiso Yoshinaka”.
宮ノ越宿の北端に巴淵(木曽川)があります。麗将・巴は、少女時代にここで泳ぎ、馬で野山を駆け巡ったそうです。この淵に住む龍神が、巴に化身して、木曽義仲を守り続けたという伝説があるとのことです。
Kiso Yoshinaka was ordered to destroy Heike by Prince Mochihito in 1180. He raised his army and prayed for a victory at the shrine above (Hataage Hachiman-gu). Although the shrine is not a large one, the tall tree (upper right, a thousand years old) would have seen the event. It’s a historical romance, right?
1180年に、以仁王の令旨を受けて、義仲が平家追討の旗挙げをした時に、戦勝祈願をしたといわれる旗挙八幡宮です。大きくはない神社ですが、ケヤキ(右上)は樹齢千年で、義仲の元服も旗挙げも見守っただろうとのこと。ロマンがありますね。
The statues of “Kiso Yoshinaka” and “Tomoe” stand in front of Yoshinaka Museum.
Reference site: https://yoshinakayakata.com/
義仲館では彼の生涯や伝説が紹介されているそうです。玄関先に、義仲と横に立つ巴の像があります。
Near Yoshinaka Museum, there is Tokuon-ji (temple). It has a mausoleum of Yoshinaka and an equestrian statue of Tomoe. It’s a solemn temple in front of a forest.
義仲館近くの徳音寺には、巴の乗馬像があり、義仲公の霊廟(おたまや)があります。森を背にした荘厳さを感じるお寺です。
The Jizo statue (lower left) in front of the temple has a lotus leaf umbrella. It relaxed me.
お寺の前の公園のお地蔵さん(左下)は、蓮の葉を傘にしています。ホッとしますね。
There are few old buildings because of a
big fire in the post-town. We can visit Tanaka residence which was an inn
for ordinary travelers. I’ll also show you the inside
later.
宮ノ越宿には、大火のため古い建物はほとんど残っていませんが、本陣や旅籠だった田中家を拝見できます。
The building above was an inn for daimyo lords and nobles "Honjin" of the post-town. It was rebuilt after the big fire in 1865. Unhappily, it suffered from the other big fire in 1883. Its main building was burnt out, but the guest house remains.
上の写真は1865年の大火の直後に再建された本陣ですが、1883(明治16)年にも大火に見舞われ、主屋が焼失し、客殿部が残っています。1880年に明治天皇が小休止をされたそうです。
The part of the building for guests remains.
焼失を免れた客殿部分です。
An exalted guest stayed at the room above.
賓客が宿泊した上段の間です。
The ex-inn “Tanaka-ya” was rebuilt after the big fire in 1883. Fittings were brought out
at that time, and were reused. I visited on Saturday, but it was unfortunately
closed again.
旅籠だった田中家は大火後に再建されました。大火時に持ち出した建具類を使っています。土曜日に訪問したのですが、再び閉館中で残念。
62 out of 279 families in the village
were engaged in carpentry, forestry and lumbering in
1848. Seven or eight carpenters
organized a group and went to the cities in the other area. It’s a livelihood of a village without abundant land.
宮ノ越村では、279軒中62軒が大工、木こり、木挽きに従事していました(1848年)。大工は7~8人で「一手合」という集団を作り諏訪や松本で仕事をしていました。平地が少ない村ならではの生き方ですね。
There is a shrine at the southern end of the post-town. Yoshinaka’s foster father established the shrine which dedicated to the deity of study (tenjin) for the son.
宿の南端に義仲の養父・中原兼遠が義仲の学問の神として勧進した手習天神があります。
The signboard says, “The annual festival is held on the 24th and 25th of August. A sumo wrestling tournament for lads has been held since the early 20th century." It's a good event. I visited on the 23rd, but there was no preparation, although I found a space for a sumo wrestling.
「このお宮のお祭りは、毎年8月24日、25日の両日で、境内の土俵では青少年の相撲大会が大正の初期より行われています」と立て看板(木曽町)に書かれています。文武両道で良いイベントですね。。23日に訪問しました。小さな土俵らしきスペースがありますが、残念ながら翌日に相撲大会をする感じではありませんでした。
Official website (in Japanese):
Honjin、宮ノ越本陣 https://www.town-kiso.com/facility/100031/
Tanaka-ya、田中家 https://www.town-kiso.com/facility/100032/
Visited in August of 2023 and in July of 2024
Previous post (museum in the neighboring
post-town in the north): Kiso village local museum、木祖村郷土館
Next post (neighboring post-town in the south): Kiso-Fukushima and Festival Museum、木曽福島とまつり会館
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